posted
I'm thinking of lowering my SS by 1 inch with the Eibach Pro Kit. Like to hear any thoughts on lowering in general, what you have used to lower your car, and quality of ride/handing. Also, did you have any alignment trouble or uneven tire wear afterwards? Thanks.
-------------------- 2002 SS Convertible #3322 Triple Black, 6-Speed Posts: 94 | From: Portland, Oregon USA | Registered: Nov 2002
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posted
The Eibach Pro Kit will lower the car atleast 1.5 inches or more!
I actually when with the SLP Eibachs and Bilstein shocks. I did custom cut the front spring by 1/2 a coil. Lower the front by 1.125" and the back I think dropped ~1".
Posts: 608 | From: Schaumburg, IL | Registered: Sep 2000
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posted
If you go lower than 2 inch drop[my case]you need to align your car like a road racer with toe in and camber exagerated!!!!! Stay at 1-1 1/2 you will appreciate it more.
Posts: 558 | From: Loretteville,Mars | Registered: Feb 2002
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posted
i had my 96 lowered with eibach sportline kit 2" front,1.5" rear. but it sets level,and it bottoms out in the rear more than the front. you may not have this problem with droping yours 1". i am basically satisfied with the way it rides(very little lowrider bounce). i do not think there is a positive guarantee that you will get exactly the drop you want i have not had any settleing of the springs since installation 4000 miles ago.
Posts: 3 | From: lakeside,ca | Registered: Nov 2002
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posted
i had my 96 lowered with eibach sportline kit 2" front,1.5" rear. but it sets level,and it bottoms out in the rear more than the front. you may not have this problem with droping yours 1". i am basically satisfied with the way it rides(very little lowrider bounce). i do not think there is a positive guarantee that you will get exactly the drop you want i have not had any settleing of the springs since installation 4000 miles ago.
-------------------- 2nd owner of 96 SS, #181,t-tops,black/black,LT1,4L60E,SLP base package,plus torsen differential,2OTL performance exhaust,SLP sport suspension package,eibach sportline lowering kit( 2" front & 1.5" rear ),bilstein shocks Posts: 3 | From: lakeside,ca | Registered: Nov 2002
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posted
Derek, Our SS has the Eibach Pro Kit on it. You are most welcome to come on over to the house and take a look to see how much it lowered the car.
Posts: 7198 | From: Near Portland, Oregon, USA | Registered: Feb 2000
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posted
I used Hypercoils that LG Motorsports is carrying. They are not Lous G2 springs which are linear, they are progressive and made by Hyperco. Both the G2's and Hypercoil springs have almost the same rate but the Hypercoils offer a better ride quality because they are progressive.
Lou bought up all remaining stock from Hyperco and he is the only one carrying them now. Until supplies last. Here is more info on the springs. Lous price was $199.00.
Hyperco Part Number: GM001.4SK Individual components of spring kit: Front Spring P/N: GM001. FSA Rear Spring P/N: GM001. RSA Rear Spring Isolator P/N: UR001.ILR “Rate Card Warranty”, “Individual Part Trace-ability”, instructions, and Hypercoil “Promo-Pak”.
Suggested Retail Price: $299.99
Product Characteristics: The spring kit is intended as a general-purpose performance and appearance product. When a vehicle is equipped with Hypercoils there are several elements that improve the overall handling. Hypercoil lowering is designed to take advantage of the existing suspension geometry and to optimize the relationship of the roll center axis relative to the center of gravity of the vehicle. The lowering improves the appearance of the vehicle and provides the best compromise between the ride and handling characteristics.
The progressive spring characteristics permit the ride frequencies to stay within acceptable limits, but provide the added spring rate to achieve bump load capacities equivalent to the original equipment (O.E.) springs. The softer initial rate is designed to provide the O.E. pre-load when the suspension is at full rebound. When the suspension is functioning in its normal range the spring rate provides a controlled performance ride but offers enough compliance to maintain occupancy comfort. The selection of rates provides the best compromise between performance and comfort.
The optimized spring calibration reduces the pitch of the vehicle under heavy acceleration or braking. The reduced longitudinal pitch of the vehicle during heavy braking improves the overall braking efficiency because the higher rate of the front springs reduce the amount of load transfer to the front tires. This causes the load on all four tires to be more evenly distributed providing additional traction to the rear tires. The additional gain in rear traction usually results in reduced braking distances.
The proportionate increase in spring rate also reduces body roll, which limits adverse suspension movement. This confines the suspension geometry to stay within parameters that enhance the tires contact patch relative to the road. The result is improved vehicle cornering and handling, because front and rear tire loading is more evenly distributed. Therefore, higher cornering limits can be achieved because the built-in understeer characteristics are reduced and provide for a more neutral yet safe handling vehicle.
Spring Type: Front: Progressive helical compression, coil over shock. Rear: Progressive helical compression, constrained by chassis and live axle.
Spring Configuration: Front: Top- turned in pigtail end. Bottom- semi closed tangential end. Rear: Top- semi closed tangential end. Bottom- turned in pigtail
Spring Rate: Front: 248 lb./in. - 611 lb./in. working range 360 lb./in. - 580 lb./in. Rear: 73 lb./in. - 237 lb./in. working range 168 lb./in. - 216 lb./in.
Urethane Isolator: Rear Lower: Designed to eliminate metal to metal contact of lower perch and spring mating surface. Reduce / damp potential road noise that could occur due to low natural frequency characteristics of spring when the suspension becomes unloaded and is operating in the rebound region.
END.
Posts: 700 | From: Fighting the Nazis of the world..... | Registered: Jul 2002
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posted
A couple of points on springs....(without getting too technical).....
The Eibach PRO-kit only lowers about 1/2".
The Eibach SPORTLINE-kit lowers almost 2".
IMHO the Sportline is TOO low & the Pro kit is not low enough.
I am using the Bilstein Sport Springs. They lowered 1-1/2" ... PERFECT! They are also a great ride on the street & work well at the track (road race).
The SLP springs ARE NOT Eibachs, they are Bilsteins (as are the SLP shocks). And, they are not the same as the off-the-shelf Bilsteins. The SLP units will not lower the car.
By the way...
SLP shocks are Bilstiens but have special valving for SLP. They are softer than the off-the-shelf Bilsteins.
quote:Originally posted by M3EATER: A couple of points on springs....(without getting too technical).....
The Eibach PRO-kit only lowers about 1/2".
The Eibach SPORTLINE-kit lowers almost 2".
IMHO the Sportline is TOO low & the Pro kit is not low enough.
I am using the Bilstein Sport Springs. They lowered 1-1/2" ... PERFECT! They are also a great ride on the street & work well at the track (road race).
The SLP springs ARE NOT Eibachs, they are Bilsteins (as are the SLP shocks). And, they are not the same as the off-the-shelf Bilsteins. The SLP units will not lower the car.
By the way...
SLP shocks are Bilstiens but have special valving for SLP. They are softer than the off-the-shelf Bilsteins.
posted
Have Eibach SportLine. It has been lowered at least 2.25" in front and at least 2" in the rear... make sure you align the car afterwords... I would also advice changing the shocks so that you get a good combination.
FWIW, no need to be aggressive in alignment when car is lowered that much... my toe-in and Caster are ate stock values, but my camber is at -0.5'... no need te be more aggressive... their almost straight and tire wear is better than before... stock camber is quite positive, so your tires will wear on the outside... try bringing it closer to zero if possible, will improve your handling.
posted
Your car looks like stock height. Bilstein are the shocks and will not change your car's height... in the other hand, if you change the springs, then your car will be lowered. I have no pix of my car in hand (not digital, though), but here is a link to give you an idea of how low it is... it's someone else's car. acarnut's web page... hope he doesn't mind My car is black and has stock SS wheels.
As for parking entrances, I suggest you lower your speed and also don't go straight in... take the entrance at an angle, you'll see you'll scrape less often.
posted
You all are correct, the first 98'-00' SLP Level 1 supension came with Eibach Springs and lowered the car about 3/4". GM took exception to SLP using Eibach's so they (SLP) found another source for their springs. SLP Bilstein shocks are revalved and not as stiff as Bilstein sport shocks. Check my sig, I have the Hotchskis springs and Bilstein HD shocks. Great combo with the stiffer sway bars I also have. Can pull .96g's with my worn out KDW's.
posted
whoa I have not been on this board for like 6 months. Anyways I have the sportlines. Measured before and after, dropped it 2 inches in back and 1.5 in front.
car handles and looks great, I do have be careful on every bump and driveway because my front scrapes and occasionally my Y pipe does but thats no big deal I am getting an off road pipe soon:D
-------------------- 98' Camaro SS Posts: 676 | From: CA | Registered: Jun 2000
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posted
If you want a true 1" drop, get the BMR progressive rate springs. They will give you a true 1" drop and a great ride. Please do yourself a favor and change the shocks at the same time. I prefere Bilsteins for everything except all out autoX. If the BMR springs had been available when I lowered my car I would have used them. I am a BMR dealer and can tell you their quality is excellent and their price is right.
-------------------- 01 Sunset Orange SS ,T-Tops,Neutral Leather,ASR,Hurst 6spd,SS Grill. SSOA # MO1 4843 Mods: Lou's short stick, Corsa exhaust, BMR full suspension. SLP Y-Pipe, SLP Lid, SLP Smoothe Bellows,SLP 85MM MAS,Hotchkis Springs, Bilstein Shocks,Hypertech 178º Thermostat,TA Girdle, Brembo Slotted Rotors, Hawk HPS pads, Goodrich G-Stop SS brake lines. AC Delco Irridium plugs. HID's. ADR M82 18" wheels, Optima Red Top, Royal Purple throughout. 407 SAE Net HP/423Net TQ www.proformance-motorsports.com proformancems@bellsouth.net Posts: 260 | From: Coral Springs, Florida | Registered: Dec 2000
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posted
I went with the Hypercoil Blue springs and it lowered it quite well. I have 11" ZR1's on the rear and can fit 2 fingers between tire and fender. I have no rubbing and it handles like crazy. They are the only suspension mod I have done. I have the standard SS suspension. We installed the SLP Eibachs on a friends car and he couldn't tell a difference in handleing at all, it droped 1". I highly recomend the Hypercoils.
[ 08. May 2003, 07:03 PM: Message edited by: Derek C ]
-------------------- Derek C
2002 Camaro SS #2609 Front end change, gutted cats, bullet muffler off stock y-pipe, O2 simms, ported throttle body, LS1 intake, GM 3.73 rear gears w/MAC cover, A/C delete, radio delete, rear seat delete, front bumper support delete, Had ebony leather interior-traded the seats only for neutral leather for a neutral on all black look.
posted
Derek, I noticed your car is almost identical to mine except I've got the SLP OEM Bilstein, and the color of course . The Bilstein package lowers the car about 3/4 to 1" on a convertible. The following are the measurements on my car: (measurements are within 1/8", ...and yes right and left are different.)
Front: Ground to fender lip:Right=27 3/8"; Left= 27 1/4" Tire Well space:Right= 2 1/4"; Left= 2 1/4"
Rear: Ground to fender lip:Right=25 7/8"; Left= 26 1/4" Tire Well space:Right=3/4; Left =1 1/4"
...My .02 cents: The Bilstein package offers a great ride, yet the front of the car sits about 1" higher than I prefer. I have decided (already done, not yet installed) to cut 3/4 coil off a second set of (front only) SLP Eng. 'Bilstein' springs. It is my hope that installing these will lower the front about 1 -1.25". The back of the car currently 'squats' low enough now so I'm not changing anything back there. There are many posts on this board on this same subject, ...you may want to search through them. Ultimately you'll need to decide what is more important to YOU, and why you're considering lowering. You may SCCA race and want to lower for performance, or simply want to do it for appearance, ...yet maintain a softer ride. These things will help you decide what spring (spring rate) suites your needs. If you do decide to lower, ...also consider the following: 1.) upgrade shocks (SLP Bilsteins are a good choice). 2.) Relocation brackets (BMR bolt-ons are nice). 3.) Adjustable Panhard (depending on how much you lower, ...you may or may not need)
...sorry for the long post, but hope this helps.
Kevin
Posts: 1046 | From: Pine Bush, NY USA | Registered: Aug 2001
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posted
I have a Global West setup on my car. I have the adjustable ride height collars on both the front and the back with SLP Bilstein shocks all round. On the front the collars require the use of 2 1/2 inch ID springs. The front spring rate is linear 650 lb/in. I also have a solid 35 mm anti-roll bar.
On the back I have the Global West race springs (apparently a little softer than stock) and a solid 25 mm anti-roll bar.
I am quite happy with the set-up with the exception of the settling rear springs.
A couple of thoughts on lowering. If you change the springs to a higher rate/lower spring you really should change the shocks to a higher performance variety. The stock shocks simply can not handle the higher rate of energy release from the higher rate springs.
If you lower the back by more than an inch or so, you may need to add re-location brackets for the LCAs on the rear axle. If after lowering, the LCAs are pointing up at the rear you MUST add the re-location brackets. The LCAs should be angled downwards slightly to the rear. The more they are up at the rear, the more the car will ride like an ox cart and you will have excessive squat (with no weight transfer) on acceleration. Been there, done that, bought the brackets!!
Also, the back end should sit a little higher than the front. If it is level to lower than the front, you will experience a lack of grip when applying power off a corner apex (as in you can't without the back end skating outwards). Been there, done that, raised the rear.
Overall, I highly recommend lowering the car. I really like the way it handles as others have noted, but as others have also pointed out.....you develop a keen "appreciation" for driveway entrances, speed bumps, pot holes, gum warppaers, etc.
Bill M 98 TA
Posts: 383 | From: Oakville, Ontario Canada | Registered: Jan 2003
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posted
I used the Bilstien BTS kit. Bought it through www.shox.com. My car went down to 26" all the way around. ( Not going to be exact,every car is different) Very happy with the kit,gives the SS a nice clean look.
Posts: 159 | From: Westfield, Massachusetts | Registered: May 2002
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posted
I just put my WS6 back to stock. I had the Eibach Sport-Lines and the ride and was way to bouncy for my taste. I did like the look thou!
Posts: 86 | From: Woodbridge, Va | Registered: Jun 2000
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posted
Just cut your stock springs and save the 200-300$$ My cars lowered to 27" all around rides and handles fine
-------------------- 2002 Z28 Sunset Orange Metallic Every GM option available for Z28 less leather " I HATE LEATHER " SLP short throw shifter,SLP skip shift,Free Cold Air box mod,Descreened MAF,Air Flow smooth bellows, Fast Toys Ported MAF Ends, SLP Air Lid,Loud Mouth,Chromed Stainless Z-28 Tips,Holley Powershot Air Filter,SLP Y-Pipe, SLP STB, throttle Body Bypass,SLP Cold Air Intake,Cut stock springs lowered to 27 inches all around Removed resonator and Installed Sweet Thunder Stick in its place "Love It"DGOETZ Fabrications Bolt-On SFC's,& Tunnel Brace BMR Relocation Bracket, BMR LCAs,Painted front grill SOM unlike Mobil 1 decals and Zaino which are NOT mods Posts: 10 | From: Boca Raton Florida | Registered: Aug 2003
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posted
I would have to leave it at stock setting, I am stock and drag the rocks in my driveway now, it's so low. Good luck on your mod.
Posts: 40 | From: Vicksburg, MS | Registered: Mar 2003
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I think Bill is right on. I am tired of swapping springs only to find that that front is too high, the rear sagged, or the car leans to one side. Adjustable spring perches are the only way to go in the front. In the rear get some higher rate springs and cut them down until the drop is to your liking.
Posts: 18 | From: Castaic So Cal | Registered: Aug 2003
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