posted
I'm taking the SS in for an alignment following a spring install and I had a question for everyone - should I remove the shock tower brace before heading in? It makes sense to get the thing aligned as perfectly as possible before adding the STB and without worrying that it interferred with the process.
On the other hand, perhaps it should be aligned as it will be driven - with the STB installed.
Anyone care to comment on this?
------------------ o 2001 M6 SS Onyx/Ebony (#1225) o Every GM Option (Deleted = T-Tops & ASR) o Every Y2Y Option including 1LE/g-Force TA KDs/Dual-Dual/Auburn/ZR1 5 spokes/grille) o !CAGS / Hotchkis STB / MTI Lid+K&N / SLP ATM / Ripper / 80-series Flow /
Posts: 114 | From: Plano, Texas | Registered: Aug 2000
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Here's the link to an 'Alignment Day' that I setup with a local performance dealer.
There is a copy of the final specs in there that you should be able to read.
------------------ Mike - Maryland Chapter Director, MAFBA
A Zaino'd Hugger coupe, w/a Grey cloth interior and an A4. In addition, there's an SLP OEM Diff cover w/drain plug, SLP SFC's and PanHard Rod and BMR's STB that has been installed. It has the airbox raised for a little more fresh air with a Whisper Lid on top and fuel rail covers added for show. It has always run on Mobil 1. GMPP DuraStop pads on all four corners & GMPP front rotors help to control the 3510 lb 'beast' on the street and at the track. A current member of MAFB, MAFBA, NASA, SCCA & SSOA. Here's some action shots of my HOSS On Track
[This message has been edited by Mike F - SSOA F99 3913 (edited 04 December 2000).]
Posts: 1446 | From: Germantown, MD USA | Registered: Feb 2000
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quote:Originally posted by NexuSS-6: I'm taking the SS in for an alignment following a spring install and I had a question for everyone - should I remove the shock tower brace before heading in? It makes sense to get the thing aligned as perfectly as possible before adding the STB and without worrying that it interferred with the process.
On the other hand, perhaps it should be aligned as it will be driven - with the STB installed.
Anyone care to comment on this?
If you want the alignment to REALLY be right, it should be done with 1/2 tank of gas and the driver seated in the driver seat.
If you are looking for MAX handling try to get as much negative camber as the adjustment will allow. Try for zero toe, tend toward out. 4 1/2 to 5 caster.
This will cause uneven wear on those expensive KD's.
If you drive it mainly on the street and not at the road course, go for the stock specs to save the tires.
If you want to really get carried away, have the stock setup put on, mark it, the do the race setup and mark it. You can then switch back and forth. The nice thing about the Camaro, it that there is one adjustment for camber and one for caster. BUT keep in mind, all caster and camber adjustments affect toe.
posted
I've had very bad experiences with dealer wheel alignments. Tire shops want your tires to wear out as soon as possible.
Find an independant frame shop that does not sell tires and have your alignment done there. You'll have to spend $50 or so, but you will be able to count on your alignment job being done right.
BTW, my SS was delivered with good alignment. That's because it was done by SLP.
posted
If you get Chrome wheels or tires (black, not chrome) or suspension, SLP redoes the alignment to the OE specs.
Posts: 1163 | From: Rochester Hills, Mi | Registered: Feb 2000
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posted
The alignment from SLP was perfect - but I had a set of Eibach's installed Friday so I needed to double check everything again.
Had the alignment done this afternoon. It was a bit off - caster was up around +7 on either side (!!), camber was just about right and toe was fairly minimal.
We set the toe as close to zero as possible, caster is now about 5.5 on each side (best we could get it to read) and camber is now at -0.5 both sides.
It took more time to get the measuring brackets on the wheels then anything. We had to deflate the tires to get them on. The kid running the equipment was paranoid with me standing over his shoulder as he ever so gently tried squeezing them in around those pristine chrome rims. I think I suffered only one minor ding to the drivers rear. Ah well.
Most of my driving is street but there are those weekends where the autoX settings will come in very nicely.
In a somewhat related post, the Eibachs I had installed have greatly improved looks but I think that I prefer the straight rate on my old springs to that of these new progressives. I haven't had enough driver time to really test them out yet and I'm still getting used to the new ride. Every passenger in the last few days has made the same commment - much more bouncy. Not harsh or stiff - just bouncy.
Thanks for the tips Grumpy!
------------------ o 2001 M6 SS Onyx/Ebony (#1225) o Every GM Option (Deleted = T-Tops & ASR) o Every Y2Y Option including 1LE/g-Force TA KDs/Dual-Dual/Auburn/ZR1 5 spokes/grille) o !CAGS / Hotchkis STB / MTI Lid+K&N / SLP ATM / Ripper / 80-series Flow /
Posts: 114 | From: Plano, Texas | Registered: Aug 2000
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