posted
what are all the "stock" alignment specs on the 2002 SS and what would be the "best" alignmnet specs for auto-X, while still being street friendly.
Thanks!!!!
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Kevin Villier, 2002 SS #186 - 6M with Hurst and "short-stick", TT, navy blue, chrome SS wheels, Bilstein suspension, SS grill, BMR STB, BMR chrome-moly panhard rod, SLP loudmouth, Direct-Flo lid with Holley Power Shot filter, mallory polished MAF ends, 4.10 gears, PPC LT's. 336 rwhp, 345 rwtq
posted
According to Sam Strano (does F-Body racing and autocross nationally), the specs he recommends for the street and casualy autocross are:
-1° Camber, +3° to +5° Caster , and zero to 1/16" toe-in.
Personally, I'd ask the shop to make both sides have the same Caster ... as much as the side that has the lowest number.
Stock specs can be found easily, but why? It came that way from Chevy ... and it isn't a GOOD thing.
Posts: 67 | From: Monroe, WA | Registered: Jun 2002
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posted
I can not recall the exact numbers for the stock setting, but like Greg said they are not all that great. I believe the stock setting are designed to induce understeer, as that is considered "safe". The one thing I do recall is that the stock setting call for a slight amount of POSITIVE camber, and this is on a suspension that gains positive camber as it is compressed (i.e.: as the car rolls onto the outside tire in a corner.) This is not a good thing.
This is what I suggest:
Caster: about positive 4 1/2 degrees (or more positive). Or as much as you can ger if your car is lowered. Some shops will put a little more caster (called caster lead) in the right front so the car will track straight on a crowned road. I do not like this myself as I spend more of time in the left lane
Toe-in: set to zero. If you absolutely feel the need for some toe-in, I would not put more than 1/32 inch total in. I have tried a very small amount of toe-in and found it deadened steering inputs and made initial turn-in non-linear, an in less than a week it was re-aligned to zero. (But I have poly bushings up front with no play so a little toe-in might help to pre-load the stock rubber bushings). Undess your car is a trailered competitiion car do not align with any toe-out. The car will be unstable ansd will change direction rather.....quickly (which is why it is good for autox)
Camber: Negative 1 degree is good for autox and street use, but you will find that it will wear the inside edge of the tires a little faster. If you are concerned about that and do not do a lot of autox than try -0.5 degrees.
Depending on whether your car is lowered and by how much will determine the limits of the settings you can achieve. The lower it is the less postive caster and negative camber you will be able to get.
YMMV. One thing is for sure, the stock settings WILL wear the outside edge of the tires and the car will push.
Bill M 98 TA
Posts: 383 | From: Oakville, Ontario Canada | Registered: Jan 2003
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posted
Here ya go Kevin (from the Helms manual): Camber: 0.4 ±0.5 Caster: 4.8 ±0.5 Toe: 0 ±0.2
That positive camber sucks! I tried getting an alignment to reduce the camber but they weren't able to do it without throwing the caster out of whack. But mine is at stock ride height with all stock suspension. With the Bilstein suspension, you might be sitting a bit lower and might actually be able to acheive some negative camber. I like Bill's suggestions for a car driven mostly on the street...in fact, those are the exact specs I tried to get when I had mine done.
Posts: 1143 | From: Portland, OR | Registered: Nov 2001
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