posted
Looks like I have a short somewhere in the car. I purchased Priority Start but didn't work. I have a Sear's Multi Tester. Will this help me find the short and if so how?
Any info will be appreciated
-------------------- Incon Twin Turbo installed by Norris Motorsports SLP Loudmouth SLP Center Quad SLP Dash Plaque SLP Floor Mats SLP SS Grille Edelbrock Torque Arm Edelbrock SFC MAC Panhard Rod BMR Control Arms Stripe by "Peerless Paint & Body: Proud owner: TT 2000SS: 486 RWHP 493 RWTQ 2001 C5: 308RWHP/340RWTQ 1997 C5 Posts: 918 | From: Davie, Fl., USA | Registered: Feb 2000
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posted
I am assumming that you installed a remote starter in your Camaro? Did you somehow mess with or bypass the PASS Key System? Remote starters are not very friendly with a system that has a security ignition key.I used to take hundreds of calls from Ford dealer technicians that were working on a vehicle that had a no start concern.
-------------------- Current ride is: 2002 Brickyard 400 35th Anniversary LE convertible #22,SLP build# 0036,35th Anniversary Build #47 EMCC Member #234 www.emcamaro.org WCA Member #197582 MMCC Member #28 NEOCC Member #634 Posts: 5682 | From: Dearborn,Mi. | Registered: Feb 2002
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No nothing like that . I went away for a couple of days and when I came back the batt was dead. It a 6 mo old battery so that should not have happened. And I have added nada to the car. I purchased Priorty Start form Ecklers. It is a device that monitors the battey and if it reaches a certain level it disconnects so that there is enough juice to strat the car. For some reasomn that did not happen. SO now I am on a search for the short.
posted
related story - My Sears Die Hard is less than 1 year old. About one month ago, it was just dead, nothing!
I boosted it, and had it tested at Sears. The battery tested 100%, the charging system 100%, and it's been perfect ever since. Nothing was left on - that I could see - it was just dead!
Just a mystery
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1998 SS - Black All Options - Mods Whisper Lid, K & N, Lou's Short Stick, Shift Light, Skip Shift, SLP Y, Borla, 4:10's, BMR STB, SLP SFCs, Granatelli MAF, Hypertech III, 160 Stat, Mallory Billet Pedals, Metco Aluminum LCAs,Fast Toys Ram Air Mod, Spohn Panhard Bar, BMR Torque Arm, free EGR mod,power antenna, BMR LCA brackets, Gentex Temp/Compass Auto Dim Mirror, AllMaxx Strobe and Wig Wag, BAER Eradispeed rotors,PPC Headers with Random Technology Hi Flow Cats, BMR Drive shaft Loop,FAST 78MM Throttle Body, FAST 78MM Composite Intake, Mobil 1 & lots of Zaino.
Wife & Best Friend Mary - copilot. Posts: 5558 | From: Windsor, Ontario. Canada | Registered: Feb 2000
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posted
Shorts can be tricky. Maybe this will help. If you have a genuine electrical short, get a circuit tester, disconnect the negative battery cable and bridge the tester from the negative post to a vehicle "ground". If the tester lights, you have a short. Start pulling one fuse at a time until the circuit light goes out, and then you've isolated the circuit.
For SS Camaro: You need to get a digital multimeter. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Put a jumper wire between the cable and the battery post. Let the car sit for at least 1 hour to let all of the body modules to power down and go to sleep. Set the meter to the ma scale and turn it on. Connect the meter leads between the battery post and the negative cable end and then remove the jumper wire. Just make sure the doors and hatch was open and the igition was not turned on before installing the meter,or you will have to let the car sit for another hour for the power down cycle.Read the ma reading on the meter. A normal system will draw will be 50ma or less. Anything higher than that and there is a draw. If you use a test light to check the draw,you have no idea how many ma's the system is drawing. If the draw is excessive,fuses should be pulled one at a time and not reinstalled (could wake up the modules) until the draw goes away.
-------------------- '02 SOM SS Camaro #3111 M6, Hurst, every GM option Mods: !CAGS, SLP CAI, SLP lid, K & N filter, SLP bellows, power antenna, air temp module, 160 thermostat, Hotchkis sig. series STB, SLP bolt on SFC's, engine plaque, NGK 55 plugs, Mobil 1, Custom rear deck mat, MBA letters on back, Raptor shift light, Silverstar bulbs, Lou's short stick, QTP cut out, SLP decal,Auto Headlights Disable Mod, Decklid Hatch Spring Mod, Drill mod for clutch hydraulics, stronger M6 parts added, Painted calibers, 4 Drilled & Slotted rotors, SS floor mats, SSOA member M02-3111 Posts: 641 | From: northern Delaware | Registered: Jul 2002
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