Nearing the end of the summer and into the fall my stock torsen rear was starting to fail on me causing me to spin one tire on the street and at the track. Now I know I have many options to deal with but I thought I would ask you guys/gals for some advice/opinions. Keep in mind that I do not want to spend lots of money for a 12-bolt or 9 inch that I won't use to the full potential.. The stickiest tire I will be running at the most 2-3 times a year at the track will be Nitto DR's. Once I do or if I do hit the 11's that I will not be putting a cage in my car so spending lots of money isn't worth it in my mind. I do travel quite a bit in my car but its not a daily driver. Street tires will be on my car the majority of the time unless I go to the track 2-3 times a year.
Now I have 3 options I was looking at but the third one I am not sure is feasible..
Option #1 Buy an SLP take-off Torsen and replace it.
Option #2 Buy a Torsen T2R
Option #3 Buy a 12-bolt or 9"
My car is a 6-spd and I have a Spec Stage III clutch and my mods are listed below..
Thanks for the help everyone...
-------------------- Curtis Knops www.thefbody.com My website Stage II milled 6.0L heads Thunder Racing TR224 Cam LS6 Intake Jet Hot LT headers, no cats Magnaflow Exhaust 12.4@116.4mph on BFG G-force KD's 6spd, stock rear... Posts: 671 | From: Saskatoon SK Canada | Registered: Feb 2000
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posted
I think the question is how much do you plan on "banging" on your car. If you think the torsen didn't hold up because it was defective - thenget the take off. If you think on the other hand that it wasn't strong enough for your kind of driving then get the 2r, getting another torsen will just be waste of time and money. If you plan on really abusing the rear - and it doesn't sound like you do - get the 12 bolt.
Posts: 3403 | From: Woodcliff Lake, NJ, USA | Registered: Dec 2000
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right you are Daddy - what caused the first one to break? Answer that and the situation becomes clearer.
-------------------- Hawkeye: SSOA F98-C98
1998 SS - Black All Options - Mods Whisper Lid, K & N, Lou's Short Stick, Shift Light, Skip Shift, SLP Y, Borla, 4:10's, BMR STB, SLP SFCs, Granatelli MAF, Hypertech III, 160 Stat, Mallory Billet Pedals, Metco Aluminum LCAs,Fast Toys Ram Air Mod, Spohn Panhard Bar, BMR Torque Arm, free EGR mod,power antenna, BMR LCA brackets, Gentex Temp/Compass Auto Dim Mirror, AllMaxx Strobe and Wig Wag, BAER Eradispeed rotors,PPC Headers with Random Technology Hi Flow Cats, BMR Drive shaft Loop,FAST 78MM Throttle Body, FAST 78MM Composite Intake, Mobil 1 & lots of Zaino.
Wife & Best Friend Mary - copilot. Posts: 5558 | From: Windsor, Ontario. Canada | Registered: Feb 2000
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I think the first one just got worn out but doing heads and cam didn't help. I have 50000 miles on my car and I have only used Nitto DR's once (thats when I found out only one tire spun). I know that the stock Torsen isn't very strong and with the added power it just can't take it anymore. I am just curious how a T2R can hold up to a few times down the track with Nittos on. I know lots of people use it for autox but I haven't read about people using as double duty to include that and a little drag racing. You always hear horror stories about people going to the track with heads/cam/nittos and breaking axles but on the other hand there are lots of people that do and make hundreds of passes without breaking a thing. I have a friend here with a stock 95 Z28 6spd with 100 shot of NOS using ET streets and his stock rear holds up fine. I think its a crap shoot.
[ 11. December 2003, 10:24 AM: Message edited by: CK-1 99SS ]
Posts: 671 | From: Saskatoon SK Canada | Registered: Feb 2000
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I like the Torsen and would try the HD one myself but I know a most people put the HD Auburn in their roadrace cars instead. I'd bet the auburn will launch good at the strip too and it might be your best choice.
But a 9inch ford with an aluminum center section shouldn't weight to much more than the stock 10 bolt, but it will lighten the wallet.
[ 11. December 2003, 11:19 AM: Message edited by: SteelHorse ]
Posts: 113 | Registered: Nov 2002
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Your Torsen may not be worn out. It is unique in that unlike most clutch type diffs. it will spin only one tire if that tire is on a low friction surface. i.e. if one tire is on ice and the other is on hard surface the tire on the ice will spin and no torque will be transfered to the tire with traction. This is why a lot of road racers don't use them, to much tire spin in the corners. You can look this up on the Torsen web site.
-------------------- NQR Racing Artic White 97 SS Conv. Blk 84 Z28(Race Car) Posts: 376 | From: Friendswood, TX | Registered: Jun 2002
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westell
Hey, could someone hand me a fire extinguisher?
Member # 2034
posted
remember, i'm a transplant from SLP's forum and happy to meet new folks here along with other friends from SLP days.
seems like most of what i read and learned was the Auburn was better for autocrossing and road racing being a little louder and with some maintenance issues. i'm sure it would do fine in straight line acceleration, too.
normally, the drexel torsen is pretty much bullet proof up to 400 hp. if it was me, i'd go back with the d-t
As mentioned above, the Torsen differential is a torque multiplier. The Torsen requires some type of resistance or friction in the system to function properly. A wheel in the air provides zero torque or friction on the system and as the Torsen multiplies the available torque, zero, by its TBR, the end result is still zero. In response to this, we developed the Torsen T-2R with pre-load to combat those wheel in the air situations.
-------------------- NQR Racing Artic White 97 SS Conv. Blk 84 Z28(Race Car) Posts: 376 | From: Friendswood, TX | Registered: Jun 2002
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