posted
I would like to know if anyone has removed the entire power top motor, including lines, etc. I want to make it a completely manual top. I have released the pressure in the lines the best I can, but would like to remove everything. The motor quit working, so I am going to yank it. I also plan on installing a 98+ center console from a coupe, so the power top switch will no longer be needed. Any info on this would be great. Thanks!
Posts: 34 | From: Lansing, Michigan | Registered: Jan 2003
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quote:Originally posted by HTWLSS: I don't know why you'd want to go manual, but I'd suggest leaving it all in so it isn't such a hassle to fix in the future.
I want manual because it is easier to use in my opinion. There will be no fixing it in the future, I am trying to fix it right now. I don't want to spend money on a new motor, only to have it fail again. There is very little chance I will ever sell this car, so customization is always an option. Posts: 34 | From: Lansing, Michigan | Registered: Jan 2003
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quote:Originally posted by ArcticYT95TA: There is very little chance I will ever sell this car, so customization is always an option.
Ah, gotcha. I have a manual top on my '67 and it's a pain in the butt when I need to put the top up in a hurry. I have to get out of the car, run around to both sides to release it, and then stand up in the car to get enough leverage to lift it up and forward. Then I have to hang on the front of the top to pull it forward & down just to get it clamped, then run around to the other side to do the same.
Steve has a power top on his '68 and it's a breeze. One touch of a button at a stoplight, clamp it down quickly, and off we go.
We had a manual top on the SST, but thank goodness Steve wired it and now it's fully powered. It wasn't fun to struggle with, so given the option, I'll take a powered feature over a manual one.
Best of luck to you!
Posts: 7198 | From: Near Portland, Oregon, USA | Registered: Feb 2000
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quote:Originally posted by ArcticYT95TA: There is very little chance I will ever sell this car, so customization is always an option.
Ah, gotcha. I have a manual top on my '67 and it's a pain in the butt when I need to put the top up in a hurry. I have to get out of the car, run around to both sides to release it, and then stand up in the car to get enough leverage to lift it up and forward. Then I have to hang on the front of the top to pull it forward & down just to get it clamped, then run around to the other side to do the same.
Steve has a power top on his '68 and it's a breeze. One touch of a button at a stoplight, clamp it down quickly, and off we go.
We had a manual top on the SST, but thank goodness Steve wired it and now it's fully powered. It wasn't fun to struggle with, so given the option, I'll take a powered feature over a manual one.
Best of luck to you!
Funny...I can picture you trying to raise and close that top. A power top on the SST...now that is cool! Posts: 5682 | From: Dearborn,Mi. | Registered: Feb 2002
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quote:Originally posted by 2002Z4CSS: Funny...I can picture you trying to raise and close that top.
Yeah, it's not a pretty picture.
quote:Originally posted by 2002Z4CSS: A power top on the SST...now that is cool!
You didn't get to see it in action in B.G., did you? What's even more cool is where the switches are hidden. It has a remote trunk release, too!
Posts: 7198 | From: Near Portland, Oregon, USA | Registered: Feb 2000
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quote:Originally posted by 2002Z4CSS: Funny...I can picture you trying to raise and close that top.
Yeah, it's not a pretty picture.
quote:Originally posted by 2002Z4CSS: A power top on the SST...now that is cool!
You didn't get to see it in action in B.G., did you? What's even more cool is where the switches are hidden. It has a remote trunk release, too!
No I did not see it in action.I went to the local junk yard and they still have that 1995-96 Z28 Goodwrench 400 Pace Car shell. That would make a great start for a trailer. Posts: 5682 | From: Dearborn,Mi. | Registered: Feb 2002
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posted
Looking in the Helm shop manual, it looks pretty easy to remove the motor/reservoir from behind the trim panel in the trunk, 4 bolts, and the rams behind the trim panels either side of the rear seat - one bolt and a clevis pin. I think I'd leave the pipes and wiring in place, they can't weigh much, and it leaves the option open if you ever want to reinstall. The manual is great - get one if you want to do any significant mods.
Posts: 25 | From: Buffalo NY | Registered: Jan 2003
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Way easier than I had originally thought. Only took about 20 minutes total, including screw around time. I will post directions if anyone is interested.
Posts: 34 | From: Lansing, Michigan | Registered: Jan 2003
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posted
Can you weigh the parts you took out for us? Is it a big differance or just nominal?
Posts: 30 | From: DeLand FL | Registered: Feb 2002
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It has a remote trunk release, too!
