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Well, I pulled the pump/motor, lines, pistons and everything associated with the power top last Saturday.The only part that was a little pita was the pistons. They have a clip that holds the top pin on that was a little hard for my fat hands to reach. You have to remove the plastic panels in the rear (the ones with the speakers in them...) to get access to the bolt that holds the piston in. Once you pull the pin at the top and then unbolt the piston (55mm tork needed), you can pull the piston up top where you can reach the two fittings for the hydrolic lines. I put small baggies over the ends of them when they were undone an used rubber bands to keep them from leaking fluid. Once the lines are off, the piston comes out. The pump/motor assembly was cake. pulling the lines out was a little pita, but not bad. They snake through and you just have to twist them a few times to get the flare nuts to clear stuff on the way out. I took my time and the job took about an hour and a half. I could do it now in 45 minutes. Not a hard job, at all. Once the piston is off, the top is really easy to raise and lower. I can one arm it. It is a heavier top than most sports cars, though because the mechanism is pretty rigid and the glass window. It's a good mod for a race car. I'm pretty sure I dropped more than 30lbs. Opened up some room in the trunk too.
The only thing I'll miss is being able to raise the top at red lights when it starts to rain. Of course, since I'm running ET Streets now, I'll be pulling off if it rains, anyway...
-------------------- Tony Johnson '95 Quasar Blue Z28 Ragtop Forged 355, DRE Dyno tune, ATI D-1SC w/14#, Spearco Intercooler, CNC 64cc Heads, Blower Cam, Art Carr race-built 4L60E, 3000 stall, Moser 12-Bolt, Borla, Hooker Longtubes, LTCC, Cog Drive. 632 rwhp 554 rwtq http://www.webpeak.com/~tony/bluez/index.html Posts: 87 | From: Boulder, Colorado | Registered: Oct 2001
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