I've tried to read everything on here and the other boards to get info necessary for a cam choice. I would appreciate any help you can offer.
Here's my cam "wish list" for you to ponder and offer a recommendation when you get a chance:
1. Good flat torque curve 2. Good low end power 3. Good power increase overall 4. Very slight to barely noticeable lope 5. Good idle and starting qualities 6. Emissions freindly 7. Good driveability, no surge. 8. Low valve train noise 9. Good solid setup, low/no maintenance issues.
So that's not asking too much is it?
Thanks for your feedback.
Posted by HM Murdock (Member # 728) on :
Not at all, It sounds like you may be happy with something like the Thunder 224, or something with specs close to it.
Copied from their site:
Thunder Racing Custom Camshaft - 224/224 .561/.561 114 LSA 1700-6600 RPM Power Band. Excellent mid-range & high RPM power. Requires computer tuning on automatic transmission cars.
Since it is on a 114 LSA, it won't peak as high as the 112LSA cams, and will maintain a good low end, while still making good power, and only a slight lope(compratively speaking). Of course, tuning would be a good thing, too, with any cam.
If you want something kinda stock sounding, which it sounds like you do, Lingenfelter has that GTP2-3 cam, with it's 118.5 LSA, it sounds stock at idle, and still makes good numbers, and is very driveable, and won't wear out valve springs as fast. It's specs are: 207/220 .573/.580 on a 118.5 LSA
But mainly, with what you have listed, a higher LSA cam would be what you would probably want.
Posted by DaddySS (Member # 848) on :
Thanks for the feedback, worth looking into. Posted by Kevin V 2002 SS (Member # 1025) on :
The TR 224 will be what is going into my car when I get a chance. It is already sitting in my basement.
Posted by Mike2001SS (Member # 2088) on :
The Thunder Racing 224 cam is about the most popular cam out there and if you got the right mods to go with it will make good power and has that 60's hot rod lope. I went with a LPE custom grind cam with wide lobe seperation,idles stock and my heads were done at Hendrick Racing's Winston car shop through manifolds it makes 410 rwhp and really comes on strong from 4,000 on. LPE has some good cams.
Posted by DaddySS (Member # 848) on :
quote:Originally posted by Mike2001SS: The Thunder Racing 224 cam is about the most popular cam out there and if you got the right mods to go with it will make good power and has that 60's hot rod lope. I went with a LPE custom grind cam with wide lobe seperation,idles stock and my heads were done at Hendrick Racing's Winston car shop through manifolds it makes 410 rwhp and really comes on strong from 4,000 on. LPE has some good cams.
The problem I see with the TR224 is the lobe profile is like the xe-r and is going to be hard on the springs.
Posted by DaddySS (Member # 848) on :
Any other thoughts, experience with cams?
Posted by DaddySS (Member # 848) on :
Got the TR220 installed yesterday and I am very pleased. 355 rwhp and 355rwtq with a huge flat torque curve! Posted by LPE LS1 (Member # 2154) on :
quote:Originally posted by HM Murdock:
If you want something kinda stock sounding, which it sounds like you do, Lingenfelter has that GTP2-3 cam, with it's 118.5 LSA, it sounds stock at idle, and still makes good numbers, and is very driveable, and won't wear out valve springs as fast. It's specs are: 207/220 .573/.580 on a 118.5 LSA
Stock springs are not an option with this cam...as outlined in the ls1tech thread and personal experience. With such a high lift, stock springs won't have a chance .
Great cam though...I'm LPE SS on the 'tech' site Posted by DaddySS (Member # 848) on :
Here's the dyno sheets
Note the REALLY flat torque curve due to the Catco Cats (being replaced).
Hope this will add to your library. I had a Comp Cams grind a custom cam. It does deliver most of what you want, of course you can't have both low end pull plus all the high end power too. The cam is a single pattern .570/.570 gross lift with 222º duration at .050. Ground at 114º lobe seperation for a pretty good idle. Does have a little bit of a lope but idles really well at 850 RPM. I replaced the entire valve train with Comp Cams lifters, push rods, Pro-Magnum roller rockers. The heads are GTP Stage 2. The engine pulls very good and seems to have a very flat torque curve, with very good top end(6800rpm). I had the car on a chassis dyno before the work was done and it was 333HP and 353 Torque. SLP full length headers, SLP air intake, K&N, 160º stat. I have not had a chance to get back to the dyno shop as it is 5 hours away and it is full blown winter here in ND.I should be able to get there in April. Am hoping for 400 rear wheel hp. I believe if you keep the duration under 224º or 225º and the Lobe seperation angle no lower than 113 or 114º you can keep your car very driveable. There is a small amount of valve train noise, sounds good! It starts and idles like factory. Best of both worlds for me.As for the emissions, I won't know till I get it back on the dyno.
Posted by BJW (Member # 1836) on :
Hope this will add to your library. I had a Comp Cams grind a custom cam. It does deliver most of what you want, of course you can't have both low end pull plus all the high end power too. The cam is a single pattern .570/.570 gross lift with 222º duration at .050. Ground at 114º lobe seperation for a pretty good idle. Does have a little bit of a lope but idles really well at 850 RPM. I replaced the entire valve train with Comp Cams lifters, push rods, Pro-Magnum roller rockers. The heads are GTP Stage 2. The engine pulls very good and seems to have a very flat torque curve, with very good top end(6800rpm). I had the car on a chassis dyno before the work was done and it was 333HP and 353 Torque. SLP full length headers, SLP air intake, K&N, 160º stat. I have not had a chance to get back to the dyno shop as it is 5 hours away and it is full blown winter here in ND.I should be able to get there in April. Am hoping for 400 rear wheel hp. I believe if you keep the duration under 224º or 225º and the Lobe seperation angle no lower than 113 or 114º you can keep your car very driveable. There is a small amount of valve train noise, sounds good! It starts and idles like factory. Best of both worlds for me.As for the emissions, I won't know till I get it back on the dyno.