posted
do small sections at a time to ensure it is sufficiently lubed. Go in the same direction as you would apply your polish.... up and down on the sides, front to back on the top.
you dont need to push hard at all, it just grabs the contaminants right out of the finish. just make sure the bar is clean (dont drop it on the ground!)
posted
Somebody suggested laying a towel on the ground in case you drop the clay bar.
Posts: 2502 | From: Binghamton, NY | Registered: Feb 2000
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posted
Be prepared to spend some time doing it. I spent 5 hours when I did my car. I washed it, clayed it, washed it, dryed it, and then started over with the polish (Z1 and Z2). The car looked great when I was done.
-------------------- Rob Wilson CFCC of DFW Charter Member #22, SSOA #M99-2123 '99 M6 Hugger Orange Coupe SS #2123 All SLP Y2Y options 360 rwhp, 353 rwtq Mods: MTI "B1" cam (Lunati 221/221@.050, .558/.558, 114 LSA) Titanium Retainers, Comp Cam Valvesprings, Chromoly Pushrods FLP Longtube Headers SPEC Stage III Carbon Fiber Clutch w/2001 Hydraulics 4.10 Gears HPP3 Programmer G2 Lid MTI Ported Throttle Body Ported MAF 17" X 11" Chrome ZR1 (GS offset) Wheels in rear Yokohama AVS Sports (315/35/17 in rear, 275/40/17 in front) Road Tech Exhaust Dump G2 3-point Strut Tower Brace Road Tech Adjustable Pan Hard Bar Road Tech Lower Control Arms Ripper Shifter w/Leather SLP Shift Knob Orange Harlan Shiftlight SLP "SS" Grille Window Tint CAGS Delete Posts: 180 | From: Richardson, TX, USA | Registered: Feb 2000
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