First I would like to say that I'll be posting this in the various Message Boards for a wide audience to get some perspectives, so don't be surprised if you see this on other sites. Also, this is a project that won't take place until late this year to mid next year. So there's plenty of time to do my research.
Okay, I have been battling for a decision on this project.
I am expecting to go back to California late this year or early next year.
Now, I have been trying to figure out what to do next to the performance side of the house with my 97 Z.
Here is the data so far on it. It is like I said a 1997 Camaro Z28 convertible. It has roughly 76,000 miles on the stock LT1. Mods so far done to the performance are:
Borla Dual Catback Exhaust
GM Performance Cold Air Induction Package
GM Original 3:73 Gears
TA Performance Girdle
Vigilante 2,800 RPM Stall Torque Converter
160 Degree Thermostat
Hypertech Power Programmer Plus Tuned
K&N Valve Cover Breather
Throttle Body Air Foil (Useless Mod!)
MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor Spark Plug Wires
Throttle Body Bypass (Free Mod)
KB Double Diamond SBF Connectors
Hotchkis STB
HAL 12-Way Adjustable Shocks
HAL Front Drag Springs
Eibach Rear Pro Springs
Energy Suspension Tranny Mount
Energy Suspension Torque Arm Bushing
I'd like to add some more HP and have been battling with what to do.
Decisions:
Keep LT1 and install new heads, cam, roller rockers, push rods, and forged pistons.
Install 396 with all forged parts.
Keep LT1 with bottom end built up and install a 100 - 150 shot of N2O.
Keep LT1 as is and just install a 75 shot of N2O.
Yes, the motor has a lot of miles, but much of those miles are highway totaled.
I'm not very good with this technical side of the house when it comes to the motors, as you can probably tell.
What am I trying to build here?
I'm trying to set up a street legal ride that I can take out to the drag strip and get into the 11s or possibly 10s. I know that the more horsepower I get into...the more parts I'll be having to upgrade to. Like transmission....I'm trying to keep under the horsepower that the 4L60E will handle. I think it's rated at up to 450 HP.
Let it be no secret here.... I am saving up a few dollars here and there for my dream. A Viper however, that will not be until 2003. I'll be receiving a $30,000 bonus for work and I have another $15,000 in the bank for this that I don't touch. Just enough for a bit of a down payment. I'm just looking at the RT/10. I'm not looking at the higher performance Vipers...I just want the appearance for the most part. A definite keeper. I've wanted a Viper ever since the first year they were produced. I already know that the body style will be changing in 2002. I've seen the prototypes and I must admit...it's a big change.
So, I'm trying not to dip into the account for this work. I want to build up the Z and keep it even after 2003.
I know that by going the 396 route, to do it right, will be in the $10,000 - $15,000 price range and that...I do know want to spend considering my 2003 goal.
What do you all recommend out there? I would like to hear your thoughts on this as to help in my decision.
Thank you so much for your time and attention, Mark "Gonzo / smoknz28"
Posted by poSSum (Member # 119) on 07 February, 2001 08:35 AM:
I'm no expert ... I like to tinker myself but leave "real" work to others. On that basis if I were to do what you are doing, I would decide how much horsepower I want then go to a shop with a proven track record that will do the package with a dyno garantee.
I also come from the school of "no substitute for cubic inches" so would choose the 383 / 396 option. The GMHTP Thunderchicken project would be a pretty good starting point for ideas.
Posted by alfredf00_1673 (Member # 142) on 07 February, 2001 10:45 AM:
If you want the Viper I'd go with the heads and cam on the LT1 and save the monies for the Viper. Heads/Cam and probably a PCM tune should give you enough horses to tide you over to the Viper. If your worried about miles on the block you could just do a bore and make her a 355 cu. in. this waqy you get all new main bearings, rod bearings, rings, etc. etc .etc. Figure all this work will run around $5000+- maybe less.
