Am I doing something wrong? I can't get the lid to stay clamped!
My clamps keep coming undone and no matter how I adjust the lid and they don't lock in place with any sort of confidence. I've tried it with and without the gasket.
The air tube is also rubbing the hood. I've seen the fix for this and I'm wondering how important the hose is. Maybe I need to go with a diffent lid and just put a breather in that ugly hose.
Any thoughts or similar problems to share? Thanks a lot all - this is really bugging me.
Ryan 
Also, MAKE SURE as Chris said that the lid is seated properly into the slots.
I had the same problem with my 'Direct-Flo' lid. The clips just would not stay down. They kept on popping up 
. Do not bend the clips to stay. Instead, try putting the front edge of the lid behind the front edge of the box. It looks wierd but the clips stay down! 
.
Here is a pic of my clear lid. Notice how the center section ( between the clips ) is behind the front edge of the box. The clips will stay down with the lid seated this way.
Hope this helps!
DT
[ 29 April 2002: Message edited by: chrisL ]
I'm going to take DaddySS's advice and give them a call. I have checked the tabs in back a number of times - both with the lid cold and warm, just after driving. I was hoping it might flex a bit after warming up and settle in better.
DROPTAWP,
Good tip on having the front edge behind. I've tried that once, but maybe I need to re-visit that. Does yours seal okay like that?
ChrisL,
Your lid looks very different from mine?? The outter edge of my lid is smooth...it does not have the re-enforcing ridges like the stock lid had. Maybe I have an older one? I bought it used but new in the box. I think it was originally shipped out on 3/2001..so over a year ago.
Why is the SLP OE lid better?
Ryan 
It looks and feels more high quality than any other aftermarket lid I have seen, and is the only one GM has approved, and I bet SLP spent more money to design and implement that lid than any other company has on any of their lids.
One thing that I did learn yesterday, the OEM lid has a tray that the filter sits in. I had never noticed this before and never heard anyone talk about it! I guess you learn something new everyday!
[ 01 May 2002: Message edited by: Macky ]
One major difference between the SLP OEM lid and most (if not all) aftermark lids (including the SLP non-OEM lid) is that they're vacuum molded. Meanwhile, the OEM and SLP OEM lids are injection molded. It's one reason the SLP OEM lid costs more (and a reason it fits as well as the stock OEM lid).
I read somewhere that the reusable-oiled filters lose performance over time. Basically every time you clean them they're not quite as good as the time before.
My SLP lid was not fitting because I did not have it sitting back far enough on the box.
DROPTAWP,
You were right! I needed to have the lid sit behind the front lip.
When I first tried this, it seemed way to tight for the clamps. Well, I called SLP and they told me that the clamps should fit really tight the first time it's locked in place. This also forced the tabs well into place in back. It's rock solid now and does not look strange. After further inspection, I noticed that front lip actually has a sealing edge in the inner part of the box, so it makes sense the lid would fit behind. It's really in place now, now way it will move. The clamps scratch the lid a bit and this lid requires considerably more force to lock in place than the original.
Finally, SLP is sending me a fix for the hose rubbing the hood. I think it's the same setup the OE lid comes with. They are charging me $10 bucks plus shipping - kinda lame. I thik it's a defect and should be free, but not a big deal.
After all this I'm okay running this airlid. I'm happy with the performance, but I think SLP could have done a better job on these. It looks like the OE lid is what the original should have been.
Thanks all for the great discussion.
DT
