i just installed the front 2 speakers with pioneer 6 3/4" 3 way speakers. when i took the old speakers out, there was 4 wires...2 positive and 2 negative. thought it would be fine to strip all 4, and connect the 2 positives to the positive wire for the new speaker and the same for the 2 negatives. i was out driving and now when the volume is turned up(not too loud) just the front 2 start to crackle, gets worse as it gets louder. to correct it for now the fade is adjusted for just the rear 4 speakers are working. was just wondering if anyone had this problem before and if i only needed to connect 2 of the 4 wires instead of all 4. thankx in advance Posted by Raven (Member # 1962) on :
I Hope you do not have a monsoon system you cannot replace the speakers... They are self amplified Posted by Avengeance Z4C (Member # 2053) on :
quote:Originally posted by Raven: I Hope you do not have a monsoon system you cannot replace the speakers... They are self amplified
Uhh what is a self amplified speaker?
I have a monsoon system and the amp itself is in the rear near the spare tire. There should be no problem at all just replacing the speakers and using the existing wires/monsoon amp. Speakers are speakers and amps are amps. They all work the same.
Im planning on using my Monsoon amp to power some aftermarkets too.. real soon actually. Eventually Ill replace the Monsoon amp with an aftermarket one.
Posted by Brians-SS (Member # 1988) on :
the car has the factory cd player, and came with a phoenix gold 3200 amplifier and a kicker subwoofer(think its a 12in, never measured). i just followed the instructions and put the positive and negative wires together. this morning they didnt sound like they were scratching as much. prob have to take the door panels off and see if thers something against the speaker thats creating static of some type, or something.
Posted by killabee (Member # 860) on :
I had the same problem so I only used 1 pos + 1 neg. If I remember right I used one from each pairing. The speakers aren't self amplified-I've never heard of this term. That implies an amplifier is built into the speaker-this is not what is happening.
The reason the factory front sound louder is because they are 2 ohm speakers while 99.9% of aftermarket are 4 ohm. This means you will get need twice the power but a better speaker has a higher output(impediance). My factory fronts got fried so I put some Polks in and I'm happy. The bass in the monsoom comes from the passenger area so the fronts and the 4" rears are complements anyway.
Posted by Brians-SS (Member # 1988) on :
thankx alot! i'll go see if that fixes the prob! Posted by Brians-SS (Member # 1988) on :
woot! that fixed it. took one pos and neg from each pair, and it worked thankx so much! was ready to go into best buy tomorrow and rant lol
Posted by SteelHorse (Member # 1725) on :
quote:Originally posted by Brians-SS: woot! that fixed it. took one pos and neg from each pair, and it worked thankx so much! was ready to go into best buy tomorrow and rant lol
You only have all highs or all mids now in the front. I tryed swapping the fronts out with a BiAmp type speaker and lost a lot of mids. Now I have to play with tone controls to get good sound. Monsoon amp needs to go.
Posted by 380SS (Member # 2078) on :
<<The speakers aren't self amplified-I've never heard of this term>>
Self Amplified speakers, more commonly refered as "Active Speakers" do exsist. The speakers have amps connected to them so you people who are hard of hearing don't blow them as easily. Bose does this with their car speakers, Polk does this with their home stereo speakers, high end though.
Posted by alfredf00_1673 (Member # 142) on :
I know there is some difference in the Camaro speakers. You are supposed to do something to the head unit if you wish to use an aftermarket speaker. Someone has the right answer.
Ah Ha Found this on the Crutch field web site.
Size Fit What you need to know 1 Use the factory speaker brackets. 2 Use the factory speaker grilles. 3. To get full-range sound from aftermarket speakers, you must bypass the factory amplifier. This involves cutting and splicing some wires You'll get free lifetime tech support for as long as you own your gear!
[ 07. October 2003, 06:21 PM: Message edited by: alfredf00_1673 ]
Posted by mhayman (Member # 146) on :
Unfortunately, the Monsoon isn't very friendly when it comes to upgrades. It's kind of like an all or nothing thing. My recommendation is to get new speakers and amp(s) at least. The head unit really isn't all that bad if you don't want to replace it. But the setup of the Monsoon system makes it very difficult to change out just speakers or just amps.
Basically the problem is that the front speakers are 2 ohm where the industry standard is 4 ohm. That means if you just replace speakers, you lose about half the power to your speakers.
What Alfred posted is correct - to get the full range of sound in aftermarket speakers, you must bypass the Monsoon amp, either by going directly from the head unit or by replacing the amp altogether.
Posted by killabee (Member # 860) on :
Are you sure the head doesn't power the fronts? I believe it was crutchfield that told me this.
Posted by Brians-SS (Member # 1988) on :
yea, i kinda notice the fronts are at half volume. for fixing the front speakers, is there a link to the site? would deffinately be looking into that. thankx Posted by alfredf00_1673 (Member # 142) on :
Take a look at this and see if they can help. Crutchfield gives info if you buy I am not sure if the have online how to do.
quote: Ok while everyone says its "impossible" to upgrade or just replace your monsoon speakers with aftermarket speakers ive just done the impossible and proved it could sound good.
My recipe is the following: (note I didnt bother with the far rear speakes since they are small and just filler anyway).
For the fronts I chose the Alpines because they have a fairly low RMS requirement, and are always a good choice of speakers for deck power. They are also very efficient. Note these are 4 ohm speakers where the factory ones are 2 ohm, the factory speakers however have a bigger magnet requiring more power to run. Now the Alpines have a smaller magnet and run at 4 ohms effectively forcing the amp to decrease the power, however the speaker is of a much higher quality and requires less power to run at optimal performance and it does sound better. Listening to them side by side the Alpine was the no contest winner. The Alpine SPS tweeters also dont require a lot of power to run, and definitely sound clearer and have a higher frequency response than the factory tweeters. I also utilized the factory tweeter's crossover for the alpines. What was nice was I cut the harnesses off of the old dead equipment and used them to wire in the new stuff, so if I ever wanted to put stock stuff back in (I dunno why) I could. The only problem is that the tweeters need to be flush mounted in the tweeter holes so the factory grilles cant be used. They look good anyway though and dont require any drilling.
Next was the subs... now everyone knows a DVC Sub running at 2 ohms is going to be much more powerful than a SVC 4 ohm sub. Thats true when youre comparing the same quality of sub, however remember the factory 4+4 ohm subs are foam and paper and inefficient compared to an aftermarket sub. The rockfords have a HUGE magnet, and RMS at about 150 watts. Now here I had to do some assumption since I couldnt get a clear answer anywhere as to what the monsoon "500 watt" amp puts out per channel. I assumed the far rear channels were lower power than the fronts and subs, I also assumed the fronts were lesser than the subs. My assumptions were 50 watts to the rear, 150 to the front, and 300 to the subs. Now that is going to under power the Rockfords because im running them at 4 ohm not 2. My other choice was JL 6w0s which would have been better power handling wise for this application HOWEVER I cant find them ANYWHERE, ebay, internet, etc, nobodys got em. So my only other choice was the Rockfords (or Pyramids LOL!!). This was basically just on a prayer I hooked em up and damn, they put out a HELL of a lot more bass than the factory ones.
NOW... This is no replacement for a high end deck, a good amp, or a nice pair of 10's in your car... but it IS great sound for a factory setup, it didnt cost a whole lot of money, doesnt take up any extra room, especially for people who prefer a stock look, or have a "race car" that they want decent sound in but dont want to have to pull their sub box out of everytime they are at the track.. I incidentally did this out of necessity since one of the mids, one of the subs, and one of the tweets crapped out in my car.
(In case anyones wondering about my credentials, I was in the Car Electronics business for about 6 years, working in a few places in both sales and installation and my last job I was in one of the top Alpine Authorized shops in the northeast. )
Posted by mhayman (Member # 146) on :
quote:Originally posted by killabee: Are you sure the head doesn't power the fronts? I believe it was crutchfield that told me this.
I believe the front tweeters run off the head unit and the woofers run off the amp. The stock fronts are kind of like coaxials. For some really good stereo info, go to the LS1 Electronics Forum, specifically the FAQ's at the top of the page.
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