I bought both SFC and STB at SLP day. The SFC didn't include instructions. I would like the torque value and also can I assume the spacers go next to the frame.
Thanks!
Posted by csmith4153 (Member # 2087) on :
I think its 60 ftlbs. I hade no "spacers" with mine. Are you talking about the threaded plates?
Posted by Big A (Member # 1761) on :
I looked a little closer at them and yes there threaded, so that answers my question. Thanks.
Posted by wild childs SS (Member # 2146) on :
I just put a set of SLPs bolt on SFCs on my 2000 SS. The instructions said nothing for torqe specs. I just tightened them as much as possible by hand with a large ratchet. Here is how I went about installing mine. 2 people make this job much easier!!!!!!! 1) Have the car jacked up 8-12 inches, have the weight of the car resting on the wheels. 2) Remove the factory tunnel brace that is located behind the tail of the trans. (4 bolts) 3) Only do 1 side of the car at a time, I started with the passenger side because it is easier. 4) Remove the bolt that goes to the front of the LCA , pull the LCA down out of the way 5) Hold the SFC up and see how good the holes line up.(don't be shocked if they are off by a 1/4 inch here and there) take a marker and mark off the area that is blocking the hole. I used a diegrinder to make my holes bigger. also you will need to grind down the lip where the rear SFC bolts to the car. 6) I painted all the spots that i had bare metal showing. 7) Now is when that friend comes in handy, slide the threaded piece of metal with 2 holes in the front frame rail, the other piece with 1 hole goes on the back. Line the 2 pieces of metal up so you can see the holes with the threads showing. "don't worry if youare confused right now you will see what i'm talking about once your under the car" 8) Hold up the SFC and carefully start the bolts, they kinda thread themselves, you may need to hold the small one in the rear with a small screwdriver to keep it from spinning on you . 9) Reinstall the LCA and the passenger side done Drivers Side 1) Is pretty much the same as the passenger side except that you have to remove and trim the piece of tin that goes around the fuel lines. This where you need to take your time and cut alittle off at time and make sure that you don't mangle the tin. you also need leave the one bolt out so the SFC will line up currectly All the same stuff that you did for the pass, side you have to do with drivers side. The last thing you do is replace the tunnel brace. Check your bolts every few hundred miles to make sure that everything is good and tight. Now get out there and enjoy the hard work that you just put into your pride and joy. It took me and 2 of my buddys 2.5-3 hours but that was working at a reduced pace. good luck and just make sure that you have the car sitting as close to level as possible.
sorry for the novel but hopfully this will make you install go better than mine did. You may use bolts to assemble this product but to call them a BOLT ON is a stretch of the english language, anyhoo good luck and let me know if you need anymore help and how they turned out. Posted by Big A (Member # 1761) on :
Thanks Wild, Thats just what I was looking for. Posted by wild childs SS (Member # 2146) on :
Thats what were here for, just try to have 2 people there because I could only imagine the coursing if I had install them by myself.
Posted by Hawkeye (Member # 88) on :
I helped a friend do his last week. Good instructions, I was a bit surprised no torque specs were given. We just tightened real tight with a large ratchet as well.
We too, had to trim the tin shield back, and I had to "elongate" one hole on the passenger side "frame" rail so it would match up with the sub frame connector hole.
Should have taken photos
Good Luck and enjoy the results!
[ 18. October 2003, 08:25 AM: Message edited by: Hawkeye ]
Posted by blkragss02 (Member # 1801) on :
quote:Originally posted by Hawkeye: I helped a friend do his last week. Good instructions, I was a bit surprised no torque specs were given. We just tightened real tight with a large ratchet as well.
We too, had to trim the tin shield back, and I had to "elongate" one hole on the passenger side "frame" rail so it would match up with the sub frame connector hole.
Should have taken photos
Good Luck and enjoy the results!
"elongate" one hole on the passenger side is common, Don Goetz had to do this on a couple of cars when he installed his SFC's and they are an absolute quality product
[ 18. October 2003, 08:32 AM: Message edited by: blkragss02 ]
Posted by SteelHorse (Member # 1725) on :
his linky has the torque specs and are good instructions too.
Thanks to all. I installed them Saturday. My torque values are within limits. I didn't have to change any of the hole sizes, I was able to start all bolts by hand. My wife helped hold the piece up so I could start the bolts. My hands got several tiny cuts on them but other than that, no problems. Posted by CamaroSCG (Member # 1591) on :
They make a big improvement in the way the car handles, doesn't it?
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