The car is an 02 SS MN6 with Bilstein suspension, SLP LT headers, SLP 345hp airlid and SLP STB.
Now I've got a lot of my own ideas, but instead of posting them and asking what you think about them, I'd like to hear what you guys would do. Keep in mind that the car is not a daily driver and the prefered performance driving is road course SCCA Solo II or just some fin on the local mountain roads.
Let's see how you guys spend my money, than I'll show you my spreadsheet I have created with my ideas. Posted by 2002Z4CSS (Member # 1393) on :
Tim,I would get some Don Goetz SFC's,STB,GMMG Chambered exhaust,air lid,3:73's,and maybe a higher stall torque convertor.I think I did not leave any money for a new set of tires and wheels. Posted by DanA_F99_1977 (Member # 118) on :
I would most defintely spend it on suspension and brakes. For what you want to do, you already have loads of power
Posted by JohnS (Member # 1073) on :
Based on my most recent experience, a set of SFC's is a must buy, plus a set of sticky tires. Make sure you leave enough money to buy lots of Zaino. Posted by cytruffle (Member # 1733) on :
DGOETZ's SFCs are far superior to anything available out there right now....for non-verts they combine the criss-cross design of the Double Diamonds and the SLPs, but in addition, they are constructed from square tubular steel rather than round, which enhances the sturdiness and integrity of the frame. The powder-coating, price, and prompt shipment can't be beat with a bat!!
His STB is equally superior in that, unlike SLP's, it will clear fuel rail covers. Also, unlike the Hotchkiss and BMR, it lends an understated, yet powerful accent to your under-hood area. Again, the powder-coating, price, and prompt shipment are unmatched.
The "DGOETZ Signature Series" is also available for an additional charge. (.....a beer)
How's that for a commercial, Mr. DGOETZ?!?!?! Posted by Xsta Z 28 (Member # 740) on :
Not in any particular order, and taking into consideration what you like to do with your car:
Sub Frame Connectors Front Brake Upgrade 13" minumum Underdrive Pulley Camshaft & Springs Ported Throttle Body Ported Oil Pump Computer Tuning
I might have gone over budget - but I am good at that
Of course while it was apart I'd HAVE to do some nice appearnce things, like, have the valve covers painted or poweder coated, paint the intake manifold, nice dress up things.
It's great to go fast and handle great, but to do all that and look good too! PERFECT!
Posted by Steve da Wrench (Member # 1301) on :
I would have to say SFC's, a brake upgrade (to vette brakes in the front??) a set of track tires.
I think that will be around your budget area. Also took into consideration what you do with the car. Sounds like handling and brakes should be your top priority, as you already have a good amount of power.
Good luck! Posted by SSHEETS (Member # 1989) on :
Well here's what I was thinking...I guess I'll have to qualify my statement about use with "you can never have too much power on tap." I want it to handle well, but I also wnat it to be a bad a$$ beast.
Cam LS1 Speed 224/224 .581/.581 112LSA $379.00 Springs retainers pushrods LS1speed $369.00 Rear end gears LS1 Speed 3.73:1 w/install kit $255.00 Underdrive pulleys ASP $189.99 Yellow Terra roller rockers LS1 Speed $499(maybe) ORPS LS1 Speed $0.00 Double rllr tmg chain LS1 Speed $159.00 Preditor $375.00 Heavy Duty oil pump SLP $159.00 160 F Tstat LS1 Speed 160 degrees F $46.99 Bolt on SFCs SLP $159.00 Total $2,590.98 I just threw SLP SFCs for a price check, nit sure which ones I'll go with yet. I know DGs are the best Posted by SSHEETS (Member # 1989) on :
quote:Originally posted by 2002Z4CSS: Tim,I would get some Don Goetz SFC's,STB,GMMG Chambered exhaust,air lid,3:73's,and maybe a higher stall torque convertor.I think I did not leave any money for a new set of tires and wheels.
Greg!!! You're slipping. The car is a 6 speed. Posted by SSHEETS (Member # 1989) on :
quote:Originally posted by DanA_F99_1977: I would most defintely spend it on suspension and brakes. For what you want to do, you already have loads of power
Given that the car has the Bilstein setup, what would you change suspension wise?
Posted by 2002Z4CSS (Member # 1393) on :
quote:Originally posted by SSHEETS:
quote:Originally posted by 2002Z4CSS: Tim,I would get some Don Goetz SFC's,STB,GMMG Chambered exhaust,air lid,3:73's,and maybe a higher stall torque convertor.I think I did not leave any money for a new set of tires and wheels.
Greg!!! You're slipping. The car is a 6 speed.
I know Tim,but the 1st sentence was this. "You had about $2,500 bucks for mods on your SS?" I was just dreaming again! Posted by SSHEETS (Member # 1989) on :
OK, I forgive you!
How's the new job? Seems like you're setteling in to a regular routine now.
I think I'll have somewhere between $2,000 and $3,000 for the mods. I'm hoping to get enough good advice to get the best value out of it, of course horsepower numbers are always important. Besides, I live at almost 5,000 feet ASL. I could use the engine mods just give me the real horsepower you low landers get everyday
Sorry about the Mopor. I remember you talking about him for quite some time. AT least you ran him fair and safe. Posted by 2002Z4CSS (Member # 1393) on :
quote:Originally posted by SSHEETS: OK, I forgive you!
How's the new job? Seems like you're setteling in to a regular routine now.
I think I'll have somewhere between $2,000 and $3,000 for the mods. I'm hoping to get enough good advice to get the best value out of it, of course horsepower numbers are always important. Besides, I live at almost 5,000 feet ASL. I could use the engine mods just give me the real horsepower you low landers get everyday
Sorry about the Mopor. I remember you talking about him for quite some time. AT least you ran him fair and safe.
Tim,the job is doing fine.I actually have engineers that listen to me know and like the work I do for them.
As far as your car goes,those mods you listed would take care of Mopar Boy!
[ 11. November 2003, 01:45 PM: Message edited by: 2002Z4CSS ]
Posted by KurtK (Member # 1779) on :
Hmmmm..choices
I would say heads and a cam.
Posted by Stealth Performance (Member # 1072) on :
ATI Supercharger and Baer Pro + Kit
Little over 2500.00 but who cares
Posted by DGOETZ (Member # 1846) on :
quote:Originally posted by SSHEETS: Well here's what I was thinking...I guess I'll have to qualify my statement about use with "you can never have too much power on tap." I want it to handle well, but I also wnat it to be a bad a$$ beast.
Bolt on SFCs SLP $159.00
I just threw SLP SFCs for a price check, nit sure which ones I'll go with yet. I know DGs are the best
Well now if I could have gotten SLP SFC's for $159 I never would have started making these things. I noticed the other items you chose were the best so why consider less than the best when it comes to SFC's.
[ 11. November 2003, 08:14 PM: Message edited by: DGOETZ ]
Posted by JohnS (Member # 1073) on :
quote:Originally posted by DGOETZ: I noticed the other items you chose were the best so why consider less than the best when it comes to SFC's.
I just happen to have the best SFC's on my SS.
Thanks, Don. Posted by blkragss02 (Member # 1801) on :
I have to chime in on "DGOETZ Signature Series" products~~If have haven't got one of his fine products on your car, you are missing out! Posted by FireChicken (Member # 2067) on :
Hmm... brakes, rotors, maybe some tuning, and you might want to think about trying an under-airbox SLP cold air induction kit. After that, I would look at SFC's, and possibly underdrive pulleys (although your belt-driven accessories will not work quite as well with the underdrive pulleys). On the other hand, you could look at a head/cam kit, I think some are in your range, but as Dan said, you've got plenty of power already. I'd say some minor engine modding, brakes, and suspension, and your good to go. JMHO
Posted by Thom Mackesy (Member # 264) on :
I might do head/cam package, but more likely I'd do an upgraded clutch and rear axle w 4.10's
Posted by SSHEETS (Member # 1989) on :
quote:Originally posted by DGOETZ:
quote:Originally posted by SSHEETS: Well here's what I was thinking...I guess I'll have to qualify my statement about use with "you can never have too much power on tap." I want it to handle well, but I also wnat it to be a bad a$$ beast.
Bolt on SFCs SLP $159.00
I just threw SLP SFCs for a price check, nit sure which ones I'll go with yet. I know DGs are the best
Well now if I could have gotten SLP SFC's for $159 I never would have started making these things. I noticed the other items you chose were the best so why consider less than the best when it comes to SFC's.
For budgetary purposes I was com[ling a price list. I was talking to LS1speed and they sell the SLP SFCs so I threw in their price. I know your's are considered superior so your arguement is right on...all I need is a contact to purchase them... ssheets@ispwest.com
Posted by Bill Mason (Member # 1807) on :
Hmmm let's see. Given that your priority is road course work and Solo II, my thoughts are to look for mods that will allow the car to "live" reliably at sustained speeds, high RPM and high cornering loads. I would also look at what would be a good foundation for future mod's....like a heads/cam package. So this is my list.
First and foremost....a good set of SFCs. These will strengthen the chassis and reduce the onset of squeaks and rattles caused by the twist placed on the body shell under high cornering loads. The added benefit is they make the suspension work rather than the body acting like an undamped spring.
Next would be higher rate valve springs and hardened push rods; to prevent valve float and possibly bent push rods/valves at high RPMs.IMHO, the stock valve springs are too weak. The LS6 valve springs are good, but a slightlu higher rate may be better.
Next, I would increase the control of the rear axle with adjustable LCAs with poly/heim joint ends (poly on the body end and heim joint on the axle). I would also suggest an adjustable torque arm that anchors to the body (at the tunnel brace)instead of to the tranny (Global West, Spohn or BMR all have good torque arms). At the same time consider a poly tranny mount. This will transmit a TON of noise into the interior, but the increased throttle response coming on and off the gas is simply amazing.
Next would be upgraded front brakes, like the Corvette conversion kit, and the use of stainless steel brake lines at all four corners and for the line(s) (traction control has two brake lines here) between the body and the axle.
You should also consider a shortend throw shift lever for the MN6. I would not suggest a short stick though, as I think it is important to keep your hand close to the steering wheel for road work (i.e.: shift and hand goes back on the steering wheel).
For your power increase....go with 4:10 gears. They will definitely help on solo II courses and there will be added response coming off corners. 4:10's can really wake our cars up.
I suspect I have blown past your budget so just stop going down the list when the budget is done.
Posted by Bill Mason (Member # 1807) on :
Oh, and I forgot one of the cheapest mod's and that is a wheel alignment. One that gives you lots of positive caster (4 1/2 + degrees), zero toe and some negative camber (0.5 dgrees for combined street and track use).
Posted by SSHEETS (Member # 1989) on :
quote:Originally posted by Bill Mason: Hmmm let's see. Given that your priority is road course work and Solo II, my thoughts are to look for mods that will allow the car to "live" reliably at sustained speeds, high RPM and high cornering loads. I would also look at what would be a good foundation for future mod's....like a heads/cam package. So this is my list.
First and foremost....a good set of SFCs. These will strengthen the chassis and reduce the onset of squeaks and rattles caused by the twist placed on the body shell under high cornering loads. The added benefit is they make the suspension work rather than the body acting like an undamped spring. DG's On the list.
Next would be higher rate valve springs and hardened push rods; to prevent valve float and possibly bent push rods/valves at high RPMs.IMHO, the stock valve springs are too weak. The LS6 valve springs are good, but a slightlu higher rate may be better. The cam package I'm looking at has hardened pushrods, titanium retainers and Comp Cam 918 springs
Next, I would increase the control of the rear axle with adjustable LCAs with poly/heim joint ends (poly on the body end and heim joint on the axle). I would also suggest an adjustable torque arm that anchors to the body (at the tunnel brace)instead of to the tranny (Global West, Spohn or BMR all have good torque arms). At the same time consider a poly tranny mount. This will transmit a TON of noise into the interior, but the increased throttle response coming on and off the gas is simply amazing. I must look into these more...thanks!
Next would be upgraded front brakes, like the Corvette conversion kit, and the use of stainless steel brake lines at all four corners and for the line(s) (traction control has two brake lines here) between the body and the axle. Will upgrade brakes later
You should also consider a shortend throw shift lever for the MN6. I would not suggest a short stick though, as I think it is important to keep your hand close to the steering wheel for road work (i.e.: shift and hand goes back on the steering wheel). Maybe...I kind of like the Hurst Shifter
For your power increase....go with 4:10 gears. They will definitely help on solo II courses and there will be added response coming off corners. 4:10's can really wake our cars up. I'm still debating 3.73s vs. 4.10s. Idrove the car down the highway yesterday and never even used 6th. It made me wonder if the 4.10s would just find me using 6th gear for highway use instead of Supercruise!!
I suspect I have blown past your budget so just stop going down the list when the budget is done. What the heck, it's not your money
[ 12. November 2003, 01:37 PM: Message edited by: SSHEETS ]
Posted by Brian's 01 SS (Member # 1499) on :
quote:Originally posted by SSHEETS: Well here's what I was thinking...I guess I'll have to qualify my statement about use with "you can never have too much power on tap." I want it to handle well, but I also wnat it to be a bad a$$ beast.
Cam LS1 Speed 224/224 .581/.581 112LSA $379.00 Springs retainers pushrods LS1speed $369.00 Rear end gears LS1 Speed 3.73:1 w/install kit $255.00 Underdrive pulleys ASP $189.99 Yellow Terra roller rockers LS1 Speed $499(maybe) ORPS LS1 Speed $0.00 Double rllr tmg chain LS1 Speed $159.00 Preditor $375.00 Heavy Duty oil pump SLP $159.00 160 F Tstat LS1 Speed 160 degrees F $46.99 Bolt on SFCs SLP $159.00 Total $2,590.98 I just threw SLP SFCs for a price check, nit sure which ones I'll go with yet. I know DGs are the best
You might want to stay in the 114 lsa range. I've been driving mine for a year now with no tune. No problems other than ses light. Still needs tuned, but not as bad as a 112lsa. Preditor won't due what you need, Ls1 edit will, but will cost ya
How many miles on your car. I thought you didn't drive it much, so a chain or oil upgrade really isn't necesary. Mine had 9000 miles on the ticker and kept the stock chain and pump. As the miles get up there, that may be a future upgrade, but by that time, the car won't be fast enough. So you know what that means...STROKER.
I have added a gmmg exhaust to my cme tips and love it. Just what it needed. You might look into that
But your list sounds like its on the right track Posted by Brian's 01 SS (Member # 1499) on :
I have read 4.10's equal traction problems
That why I'm going 3.73's. Its a happy medium. Posted by cytruffle (Member # 1733) on :
quote:Originally posted by SSHEETS: First and foremost....a good set of SFCs. These will strengthen the chassis and reduce the onset of squeaks and rattles caused by the twist placed on the body shell under high cornering loads. The added benefit is they make the suspension work rather than the body acting like an undamped spring. DG's On the list.
ohhhh.....Dooooooonnnnn, sweetie?.......where's my commission??????............
j/k!!! Posted by DanA_F99_1977 (Member # 118) on :
quote:Originally posted by SSHEETS:
quote:Originally posted by DanA_F99_1977: I would most defintely spend it on suspension and brakes. For what you want to do, you already have loads of power
Given that the car has the Bilstein setup, what would you change suspension wise?
Lower control arms, torque arm, spherical joints instead of poly or rubber bushings, springs to lower it, panhard rod, end links
Posted by Scott Chab (Member # 174) on :
I'd have to go with a 12-bolt... since I have a feeling I'm going to need one soon anyway.
Posted by SSHEETS (Member # 1989) on :
I know a 12 bolt is the end all answer to rear end strength, but at $2,000 grand that would pretty much eat my budget up. I've got some time before I dive in so I need to do some serious homework.
I need to learn about suspension mods and if the 02 LS1 oil pump is week?
I need to change my statement about use too. I'm really building a street toy. Horsepower is #1 traction and handeling #2. I like Solo II, but can only make 1 - 2 events a year. I'm not trying to be competittive, just fast.
As for horsepower, if I'm going into the engine and have some money in the budget I figure I mightas well do what I can while I'm in there. I need the SFCs, but other suspension mods can be done later.
Posted by Bill Mason (Member # 1807) on :
I have 4:10's in my car, and just love em. I now use 6th gear as my highway gear, and the engine can now pull hills where it would have meant a shift back to 5th before. Traction is only a problem in the sense that I can spin the wheels when I want too. If I don't want wheel spin, I use a little less throttle. Did I mention that wheel spin can be fun.
RPM is not bad either. At 120 kph (about 75 mph) the engine is turning about 2100-2200 rpm.
If you are going to add power, remember it is useless unless you can get it to the ground. This is where the rear suspension stuff I suggested will help. I have done all of that to my car, and the axle now stays planted where it would wiggle and squirm before causing wheel spin. The pieces I mentioned will also get rid of axle hop.
There is one downside to a 12 bolt and that is weight. This is also unsprung weight, meaning the car will ride worse and handle worse on bumps. Just something to remember...it's part of the trade-off with a 12 bolt.
BTW, it's a lot of fun spending other people's money.
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