I currently have 33,800 miles on my 02 SS. At 50 to 60 MPH I get a severe steering wheel shimmy when I lightly apply the brakes. I had the front rotors turned about 15K miles ago for a similar situation. Now its back
I doubt there is much left to turn on the orignal rotors and i suspect if I can turn them, the condition will only return. I torque my wheels to 100 ft-lb as recommended and have not made any high speed panic stops.
I can get replacement rotors (non composite) for $50 ea. or I can get slotted rotors for $100 ea from the local parts shop.
I know this topic has been beaten to death, but I would like some comments as to which way to go.
TIA
Posted by Happy_Dan (Member # 118) on :
I replaced my warped rotors with factory rotors but I had them cryogenically treated. No problems since.
Posted by xero (Member # 2001) on :
mine are warped again too
Posted by HouSSton (Member # 2081) on :
Anyone have any experience with the slotted rotors? I don't want to get exotic and use racing pads. I just want a decent rotor that won't warp.
My '94 B4C had 108,000 miles when I sold it and the rotors had never been turned. These composit rotors are junk.
Posted by FireChicken (Member # 2067) on :
quote:Originally posted by Happy_Dan: I replaced my warped rotors with factory rotors but I had them cryogenically treated. No problems since.
You need to be careful with that cryogenic treatment. If its not done properly, the material can become so hard and brittle that it shatters like glass under load (braking or lugnut tightening).
Personally, most people seem to prefer aftermarket rotors as an alternative, but just because you have new rotors doesnt mean you should ignore the lug torque.
Posted by fenton23 (Member # 878) on :
I put Baer Eradispeeds on all four corners about 2 years ago and have not had a single problem with them. I really can't say if there was much of a braking improvement, but they sure look good.
I've used Auto Zone private label pads (very noisy...very bad), stock GM pads, and Hawk pads with them. They all stopped well...the AZ's were just noisy.
Posted by Stealth Performance (Member # 1072) on :
I too have hear that Baer is one of the best. If I had to I would go that route. Good Luck. Posted by blkragss02 (Member # 1801) on :
quote:Originally posted by ss_rs_z: I too have hear that Baer is one of the best. If I had to I would go that route. Good Luck.
Me too, I guess there is no problem with warpping with those Posted by Happy_Dan (Member # 118) on :
Carbotech Brakes does an excellent job on the cryo treatments. My SS has been to a few track events on road courses with more aggressive pads and they still work perfectly. Just an FYI!
Posted by ss_rs_z (Member # 1888) on :
quote:Originally posted by blkragss02:
quote:Originally posted by ss_rs_z: I too have hear that Baer is one of the best. If I had to I would go that route. Good Luck.
Me too, I guess there is no problem with warpping with those
I haven't heard a a bad word about Baer. All I have heard are good things and they were even mentioned on Two Guys Garage and HorsePower TV. Posted by HouSSton (Member # 2081) on :
Are they really worth the money? I don't autocross or street race.
Are there any lower priced alternatives? I can get a set from a local parts house for $200 but I do not know anything about them.
Posted by westell (Member # 2034) on :
If you got the extra $$$$$, go with Baer
I went with Power Slot Rotors / Hawk Pads
No more problems. Daily driver Posted by Cavy Dan (Member # 1352) on :
I heard the cheap basic rotors from Autozone actaully hold up so much better than our factory ones. I've heard that quite a few times, and was gonna go that route if my dealer woudlnt fix mine under warranty.
Posted by Bill Mason (Member # 1807) on :
I am not sure what you mean by composite rotors??
Even though you torque the wheels to 100 ft-lbs, the way you do it is also very important. They must always be tightened in a star pattern and in three steps (hand tight, 50 ft-lbs and 100 ft-lbs). It is very important that the lug nut actually turn at each tightening step.
Also, if a shop touches my wheels, I watch how they do it. IF they do not do as above, I loosen the nuts when I get home and do correctly myself. IMHO, it is important that this is doen ASAP.
Slotted rotors will work better at higher speeds/pad temperatures as they give a path for gases to escape from under the pads.
They also "wipe" the pad surface and keep the pad material fresh. This can mean faster pad wear!! Also, if they are like cross-drilled rotors they can be noisy as the slots wipe across the pad.
One characteristic I noticed with a set of Brembo cross-drilled rotors on one of my previous cars (1990 300 ZX) is that there can be a momentary delay in braking in the wet. Seems that water can collect around the edges of the holes and the pad must first wipe this water away before they "bite" into the rotor. I do not know if this happens with slotted rotors. It was no big deal.....just neded to push harder when first applying the brakes.
Posted by KurtK (Member # 1779) on :
Power Slot rotors/ Performance Friction pads here
Posted by mhayman (Member # 146) on :
quote:Originally posted by Cavy Dan: I heard the cheap basic rotors from Autozone actaully hold up so much better than our factory ones. I've heard that quite a few times, and was gonna go that route if my dealer woudlnt fix mine under warranty.
Yes. This is what I did. $38 each and easy to replace. I also put in carbon ceramic pads while I was at it. I haven't had any problems with about 15,000 miles on them.
Posted by HouSSton (Member # 2081) on :
I think I am going with a stock replacement. It is thicker than the standard and does not have the composite hub. If I have problems with these, then I will look into a good slotted rotor.
Its really frustrating, in that I take all of the precautions with wheel installation, torque specs, etc. to have this happen twice in less than 40,000 miles. Its pretty sad when the pads outlast the rotors.
And like I said earlier, my '94 B4C had 108,000 miles when I sold and it had the original rotors and they had never been turned.
Posted by westell (Member # 2034) on :
I had the first rotors done under warranty, 2nd time the GM rep. would not take care of under warranty. claims the hot climate down here attributes to warpage. bs! that' when i changed. OEM rotors will warp again Posted by Y2KSS1363 (Member # 1564) on :
My rotors were replaced under warrantee at 35K miles by the local dealer. When I took the car in I made it clear to the service writer that this was a warrantee issue, not abuse. He said that if there were signs of overheating, I'd have to pay. It turned out that three out of four rotors were warped, one of the rears had minor overheating signs (discoloration). The pads were nearly like new, so those were not replaced.
Perhaps SS's signature on my shock tower had something to do with the level of service I received.
At least one person I know reports the Eradispeeds warped on his car, too. I'd go with the AZ's if it were my money (and it may be in a few K more miles.)
Posted by twobratSS (Member # 2180) on :
quote:Originally posted by fenton23: I put Baer Eradispeeds on all four corners about 2 years ago and have not had a single problem with them. I really can't say if there was much of a braking improvement, but they sure look good.
I've seen Mr. Fenton's!...They DO look good! I think Missi's are warped too ...But for now, I'm just going to look at putting some AZ's or O'Reilly's on there. Also, with a baby on the way, cheaper is better for now!
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