I know we are somewhat limited, like the SLP long tubes are not for us, etc.
Thanks, Rich
I hear that the FLP long tubes are real nice. I don't have any yet (waiting for the wife to approve more credit). It also looks like I'm going to have to get a rollbar first.
Hopefully Gonzo will see this, I think he has the FLP headers and they look real nice.
Okay as for input on the headers, I chose the FLP Long Tubes for some good reasons.
First, I'm slammed in front with my HAL 12-ways and HAL Drag Springs...not much clearance as I've lowered the front and got ground effects. I was looking for a set of headers that would have good ground clearance. I was hearing that I shouldn't go with shorties, as this is what I was initially after....they said because you would lose some HP that you can pick up with long tubes. I kept telling everyone...."but I'm slammed in the front and I really don't want to raise it back up again as I like the appearance." Then the word... FLP came up...I said, "you mean, SLP?" "No, FLP!" Duhhh....okay... So, I went to work on research and talked to what must have been 100 users of the FLPs and FLP themselves in regards to ground clearance. I took a look at tons of photos of various rides with the FLPs and they all had great ground clearance. Even though I was looking for headers for my LT1, I had seen many FLPs with the LS1s as well...and they all look great for clearance even with lowered rides.
Second, I was after the performance...I had seen some numbers from various dynos and there were some really nice gains. I couldn't tell you what they did for me as I did a whole engine rebuild boring it out to 355 with a forged bottom end....yadda, yadda, yadda...
Third, I was looking for the appearance of headers...and FLP had just that!
The really neat thing about the FLPs is that you can get the entire package with the high flow cats and straight tubes with all the hardware. You pay a pretty penny, but in my opinion....it's all been well worth it!
Just my few pennies....You can see the list of mods by selecting the link in my sig if you like.
[ 24 November 2001: Message edited by: 2001 ]
[ 12 August 2001: Message edited by: Callaway SS/450 ]
[ 12 August 2001: Message edited by: Callaway SS/450 ]
quote:
Originally posted by 2001:
Am still new and learning but dont know what company flp stands for? also have basic ss package will installing headers help with out changing single each side exhaust.Bought car off lot did not know of slp till already had car.2001 SS conv.
Callaway hit it....and here is their website: http://www.flpexhaust.com/
quote:
Originally posted by Topless Z:
FLP's are definately easier to install than SLP's. SLP's will fit M6's. M6's don't have the X-brace that the A4's have. The X-brace interferes with the Y-pipe. I got the SLP's purely for the fact that they are cheaper. Especially under a GP. Which FLP no longer allows their vendors to do.
SLP says the long tubes are not for converts, what did you do to get them to fit?
quote:
the *ONLY* LS1 convertible the headers / y-pipes do not work with are the automatics. For automatic guys, we are working on a replacement x-brace to allow header install too.
thanks again,
Brian
I should point out that I was UNABLE to put the X-brace on because the y -pipe interferes.
However, I have Kenny Brown DD SFC and hope that the car remains stiff enough. I also had to make an insulation plate as the y-pipe got a little to close to the fuel lines for my comfort.
I have a set of KBDD SFCs but have not installed them yet. I was wondering how much trouble you had getting the headers on with the SFCs already in. Let me know. I would like to put headers on I am just not sure how soon it will be. Also, I currently have the Stock SS exhaust.
Thanks,
SFC's OK Be warned. The FLP's DO have a problem with the KB DD's. The guy installing the SFC's was doing it AFTER the headers were installed and he had to cut the SFC and faricate a 'knotch' on the passenger side (I think - memory not good). It took him an extra hour to fabricate.
You may need to adjust them to keep them from hitting the floorboard on the driver's side, but this helps them provide the much needed ground clearance. I've never had a leak with them since I installed them in April 10,000 miles ago.
Before and after dyno results are as follows:
Before: 304 RWHP, and 318 RWTQ
After: 328 RWHP, and 338 RWTQ (with offroad pipes)
One of the guys in our car club (Midwest F-Body Association ubb.mfba.org) just started working there also. Ask for Mitch. They do a full assortment of performance work (engine, trans, suspension, exhaust, etc...).
I'd get them again if I got another car, and have been very please with them.
I'd like to go with long tubes, and FLPs were my original choice, but I don't think I'm willing ot give up chasis stiffness for 10hp over shorties.
2) Anyone have pictures of the "notching" needed to make the y-pipe play nice with the KBDD?
I don't have FLP's yet, but I was planning on welding on my KBDD's this winter and would like to "notch" them before welding them in... for simplicity sake.
Hey Shawn:
will you commin down to Seattle anytime soon? I'd like to slide under your beast and use a carboard stencil to mock-up the KBDD modifications nesssary (and check out the X-brace problems... maybe there's a way around that one too).
[ 30 November 2001: Message edited by: Steve in Seattle ]
[ 07 December 2001: Message edited by: Steve in Seattle ]
Cheap and effective. I'm not wild about the rasp in the 2000 - 2200 rpm range. I would do FLP or TTS if you have the money.
Steve:
Shorties are pretty much a waste of money. Do longtubes or put your money elsewhere.
Also that X-brace is very flimsy. It can be bent by hand. I noticed zero difference removing it from my car, but I have KBDD which made a HUGE difference. If you want effective piece, buy an aftermarket driveshaft loop and install just the crossbar. Pieces like the BMR have some real heft to them.
Yeah, I guess the best thing is to get together some time. I have been to Seattle a number of times as Ellis Groo has been tuning my car, but I'm now starting to do some of that myself. With a wife and three kids it is tough to get down there and I do not have a digital camera.
Lets stay in touch as I would like to see your ride.
[ 30 November 2001: Message edited by: Rickerbucks ]
Anyway the question.
I have coated Macs in my '94 Z, going into a borla that's usually wide open, Gains are tough to measure since it depends on what you have. That is header gains on stock air and stock exhaust is less than header gains if you have better air flow and bigger exhaust.
That run was on 16 inch MT ETs I had three runs. The first two I just bogged right at the line. Even the third run I still found myself jumping off the line and bogging. The 60 foot was 2.19. I have just bought some 15 inch ET's and have to get some rims so hoepefully next year I'll get some more respectable times with some practise.
I'll probably be making a run up to Vancouver to drop him off for Spring Semester in January (I gotta work this month, so my parents are probably gotta go pick him up for christmas).
Here's my photo album:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=1007543&Auth=false
quote:
Originally posted by Rickerbucks:
Yup to the loosening bolts. I have JUST had that problem. After 6 months I got a ticking and finally found that the bolts were loose and I had blown out the header gasket. I had to replace it on the passenger side. I did not know that this might be a particular probelm for FLP's. I still like them though.
Try the following link. These bolts will not back out/loosen. Don't forget to use anti-seize! You can get em for about $40 if you look around. (Jegs)
Stage 8 LOCKING Header Bolts. (they will not loosen up until you want them to)
also, are the FLP headers 50-state carb legal? want to be able to pass DEQ.
[ 30 December 2001: Message edited by: NATESS ]
