I was wandering what suspension mods you convertible guys are going with, to keep the body roll at a minimum. Posted by HTWLSS (Member # 117) on :
poSSum has a very nice set-up. Maybe he can give us his list.
Posted by BPS (Member # 1260) on :
I'm in the process of doing suspension mods to my '94 - but I can tell you what I've done and what I have sitting on the floor waiting to go in.
Completed STB - did not notice a thing Eibach pro kit and bilstiens HD shocks - feels much more solid going over bumps - looks great APHR - no difference - needed it for the 315's Wheels - 17" rims - 285 in front 315 in rear - wanders a bit more - grips a lot better
Upcoming KB DD SFC - to be installed, heard this will make a BIG difference Suspension techniques large sway bars - to be installed, price was right ALCA's and lowering brackets - to be installed, eliminate wheel hop associated with lowered car.
That's it
Posted by acarnut (Member # 1069) on :
Suspension Techniques Speedtech springs Hal adjustable Coil-over shocks 32mm front hollow 1LE swaybar, poly bushings GW LCA relocation (anti-squat) brackets; 21mm rear hollow 1LE swaybar, 1LE LCA's; 1LE Panhard rod; (after lowering, the rear was only shifted 4mm, so an adjustable PHR was not necessary) Airlift 1000 airbags, independently plumbed.
GW SFC's welded on to reduce the chassis wobble worsened by the stiffer suspension. I'd say take it easy on the spring rate and sway bar sizes for this reason.
The car sits about 2.5" lower than factory. Rides firm and corners flat even on the factory 16" tires. The airbags keep the car from hitting the bumpstops too hard.
DaveH
Posted by GORT (Member # 1267) on :
Hey BPS, are those sway bars the 35mm/25mm kit? If you get a chance post how you like them when you get them installed. I have been thinking about trying the front bar on my car. I have heard good things on coupes but have never heard from someone with a convertible. Thanks!
Posted by BPS (Member # 1260) on :
Yes they are, and I post my impressions - I got them for a reasonable deal - $190 for both with bushings and linkage, only used about 2 months before the poor fellow decided to sell his car and unloads his mods, local as well so no tax and no shipping.
Posted by Rickerbucks (Member # 1208) on :
SLP Lowering springs, SLP Bisteins, SLP STB, Hotchkis Adjustable panhard bar and lower control arms. Poly bushings throughout, Kenny Brown DD SFC's. 315's in rear. 5 point roll bar. This dropped the car about 1.5 inches and I DID NOT have to work the inner fender lip to get the 315's to fit. The SFC's made a big deifference.
I find the car gets pulled ALL OVER the road on a bad surface. Scares the crap out of me sometimes.
What I would now like to do is put in Hal's.
Posted by BPS (Member # 1260) on :
Ricker$$ What are you running up front? I find that my 285's cause me to get pulled a lot more than the 255's did no matter what I do to the alignment or suspension.
Posted by Steve in Seattle (Member # 315) on :
Here's what I did:
1) Bolted on a Strut Tower brace - increased the aready bad understeer problem.
2) removed strut tower brace.
3) Drag radials - increased understeer initally, as well as wheel hop. This decreased somewhat over the past year of heat cycling. Will be replaced soon (tread is illegally low).
4) weld in Kenny Brown SFC's - hugh increase in weight transfer, much more predictable cornering/braking. Less wheel hop, and HURRAY... no understeer. heck, its damn near nutral now! (some of this is likely due to the LCA removal/cleaning since the bushings were frozen in place pretty good on the driver's side)
5) bolt on old STB - nice touch of understeer when level, which I can transistion to oversteer if needed (with some extra gas). I can throttle steer!!!
Next up? - Replace the worn Nitto 555R's on the rear - find a high milage (200 to 300 wear rating), yet fairly sticky front set of tires. - Weld in my Spohn LCA relocation brackets (these may increase oversteer a bit, but the fresh Nittos should compensate ) - Upgrade my LT1 front brakes. (C5 calipers, LS1 spindle, SS brake lines, speed bleeders, ATE Super Blue fluid, and KVR LS1-sized cryo-treated/cross-drilled/silver-cad plated rotors are all waiting in the garage)
Any recomendations on Front Brake Pads? (I'm currently running GM Durastop's in the rear on my KVR LT1-sized cryo-treated/cross-drilled/silver-cad plated rotors)
I'm considering Porterfield R4S street-performance pads. But they sound damn expensive at ~$160 a set. Any thing else I should consider?
Posted by Rickerbucks (Member # 1208) on :
I have 285 Michelin Pilot Sports. Oh Ihave the LS1 brake upgrade but just the stock calipers and pads.
Posted by BPS (Member # 1260) on :
I'm in the process of installing the LS1 front brakes - just need the rain to stop so I can bleed them.
Posted by Bern'n T/A (Member # 1350) on :
What the heck... I'll add mine.
BMR Shock Tower Brace BMR Sub-frame Connectors Spohn Lower Control Arms Spohn Pan-hard Rod 21mm (1LE) Rear Sway Bar w/ Energy Syspention Bushings.
Posted by GORT (Member # 1267) on :
After talking to Mr. Strano at stranoparts.com I have decided on my setup. I am going to run ground-control coilovers in the front w/ ~400lb/in springs (same rate as Eibach), Eibach prokit rears, Koni SA shocks, and I will start out w/ my 1LE bars (32mm f, 21mm r). I may upgrade the front to a ST 35mm later though. I also have KBSFCs waiting to go on the car.
Posted by 97ssconvertible (Member # 1053) on :
why not i'll add mine. slp stage 1 springs slp stb slp bilsteins lakewood lca's bmr relocation brackets bmr aphr suspension techniques swaybars poly bushings everywhere oh yeah and wolfe 6 point cage
Posted by mcflyz28 (Member # 1135) on :
BMR STB and SFC's, the SFC's made a noticable difference, the STB I can't say made much difference but it looks cool and improved steering feel during cornering.
Posted by Black_97'Z (Member # 1411) on :
