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MOST OF THE MEMBERS #1 MOD HAS BEEN A LOW TEMP THERMOSTAT. QUESTION#1,WHAT ABOUT SMOG,#2WHAT ABOUT COMPUTER RECALIBRATION,#3WHAT ABOUT FAN RECALIBRATION.#4 WHAT ABOUT POWER (DYNO RESULTS).BEING FROM SO. CAL. I'D LIKE TO SMOKE SOME HONDA CIVICS&SOME ACURAS AND STILL LIKE TO BE ABLE TO BEAT THE SMOG GUYS....KNOW WHAT I MEAN!!!!!!!!!!!!? LOVE YOU GUYS
-------------------- 99 MN6 HURST, SLP LID, K&N, AUBURN,SLP DUAL-DUAL, ALUM DIFF COVER,BILSTEIN/EIBACH PKG., SYNTEC LUBE PKG. ZR-1 WHEELS, PEWTER/FLAME RED INTERIOR. 70 SS396 CHEVELLE, DARK GRN/WHITE STRIPES, T56,6spd, 3:73, Hooker w/3inch primaries, GM 502/Crate w/ Crane 236/246@50 hyd/roller,centerforce clutch, and lots of busted knuckles and fabrication. Result? 468HP RWHP per Westech Performance,and Dougans Racing Engines, Mira Loma Cal. Posts: 26 | From: rancho cucamonga cal. | Registered: Feb 2002
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#1 - I don't see how it would affect smog. #2 - Computer will learn what it needs to itself which is nothing for temperature. Cooler air is denser air so in that regards I guess the mixture would be different than with a higher temp thermostat, but the computer will adjust for that. #3 - You will either need to reprogram the temp that the fans come on (with something like HPPIII) or get a manual fan control switch (mine is on order form SLP). #4 - Can't answer that. I guess it souldn't give yo more HP as much as it helps not to lose it by having things get too hot.
By the way, I don't think it is the number one mod. I think an air boax and exhaust would be number one and the biggest bang for the buck.
Hope that helps.
Posts: 5946 | From: Litchfield, NH, USA | Registered: Feb 2000
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Stick with at a 180 degree thermostat, the LS1 engine does not like to run any colder. Most of the modifications that some aftermarket companies do, only use the 180 thermostat. M004340 2000SS DARK BLUE MET. M-6 W/HURST AND WHITE KNOB GMMG CHAMBERED EXHAUST WITH STOCK TIPS BILLET GRILL W/67' SS EMBLEM UD PULLEYS 180 THERMOSTAT WHEEL CENTER DECALS ALL AMSOIL SYNTHETICS AMSOIL TWO STAGE AIR FILTER AIL LID KEY FOBS " RACE GLAZED EXTERIOR " DELIVERED 2/15/2000 (NOW HAS 2200 MILES) Posts: 251 | From: Dallas, Georgia usa | Registered: May 2000
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I was getting ready to ask that question about the low temp. t'stat when I saw it on the forum. I've been wondering about a stat replacement, but a couple of Chevy mechanics told me not to change it.
-------------------- '02 Blue SS, SLP #0397 Commemorative Portfolio, Front Mats Custom Rear Deck Mat, Key Fobs Dash Plaque Posts: 60 | From: Ellicott City, Md. | Registered: Mar 2002
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quote:Originally posted by MOO4340: Stick with at a 180 degree thermostat, the LS1 engine does not like to run any colder. Most of the modifications that some aftermarket companies do, only use the 180 thermostat. M004340 2000SS DARK BLUE MET. M-6 W/HURST AND WHITE KNOB GMMG CHAMBERED EXHAUST WITH STOCK TIPS BILLET GRILL W/67' SS EMBLEM UD PULLEYS 180 THERMOSTAT WHEEL CENTER DECALS ALL AMSOIL SYNTHETICS AMSOIL TWO STAGE AIR FILTER AIL LID KEY FOBS " RACE GLAZED EXTERIOR " DELIVERED 2/15/2000 (NOW HAS 2200 MILES)
I agree from when I had my 1999 Z-28 put on a chassis dyno. The guy from Werks Performance Chassis Dyno had let my cold LS1 run for a while to get some heat into it. I only drove the car 1-2 miles to the dyno and he stated that it needed to warm up and that LT1's and LS1's like a bit of heat before he would dyno it.
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I switched to the 160* thermo because of the very hot weather we have here in southwestern Va. My car runs at ~175-180*. No ill-effects and since the water temp stays around 180* the car does not suffer the heat sink problems created by 200* temps I use to have. My Z28 now run just as well in the middle of the summer as it does during the spring with its dense crisp air.
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in my 91 s10 i put a 160 therm in there and the thing ran like ****, cause it couldnt get up to the right running temp, my dadvice is dont change it!!!!!!
Posts: 4 | From: PA | Registered: Mar 2002
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