posted
I have posted this question in the technical section as well. I have just purchased an 02 LS1 from a Z28 Camaro with 6sp and 4700miles. This combo will find a new home in my under construction 68 Camaro. Any help with potential problems or special tips would be great. I know this will be killer, but I will need all of your help. Thanks, Noel.
Posts: 4 | From: Red Deer, Alberta, Canada | Registered: Oct 2002
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You need to get a free-flowing air box. The SLP lid and cold air induction kits are pretty good. About $125 or so each (US dollars). Whisper lid is also a good one. Others work OK, too. Check Jegs, Summit Racing, Thunder Racing, etc.
If you want more HP, then it's headers (Grots, SLP, FLH, Edlebrock, etc.), cats (if you want to be legal ... Random Technologies is a good high-flow unit), and a cat-back system (I like the Corsa, but nothing wrong with SLP Loudmouth, GMMG, Edlebrock, Magnaflow, etc.).
If you want still more, heads and a cam are the way to go. Tke your pick.
Want MORE? Get a supercharger. There are "centrifugal units" and "roots-type units." Centrifugal units are like a turbocharger that is crank-driven. They mostly work at higher RPM ... like 3500-4500+ and up.
The roots units are like a pump and work all over the RPM range. MagnaCharger has one that also has a mechanical bypass (engine is not under boost at low power requirements ... only when you step on it or are at higher throttle positions).
Can also go with Nitrous Oxide injection. if you do, there are "wet" and "dry" systems. Dry means you inject the Nitrous before the Oxygen sensor system and the system compensates for the Nitrous itself. Nitrous is richer than gasloine (has 31%Oxygen as opposed to about 21% for gasoline), so you need more fuel or your mixyure goes lean ... and you TOAST your baby LS1. New engine time. A wet system uses a second solenoid to dump extra raw gasoline into the mixture to compensate for the lean mixture. If the extra solenoid fails, you toast your baby LS1. new engine time.
Dry systems are "safer", but there is nothing wrong with a good wet system either. Most people who are serious wet users use a double solenoid for the extra fuel just to ensure they don't toast the LS1 and have to buy a new one.
General consensus among the guys and gals that go the "Extra mile" for power is as follows:
1. A good Nitrous car will beat a good superchargered (S/C) car, dollar for dollar. You can easily beat Nitrous with a supercharger, but it will cost $$. Ask the Top Fuler drag racers!
2. A good centrifugal S/C car will beat a good roots car in a drag race, but the roots car will make more power down lower and broader in the RPM range, so the the roots car is more "streetable" and is friendlier on a road course.
3. Heads and cam will get you into the 400+rear-wheel horsepower range assuming headers and cat-back. Roots will get you into the 360 to 420 HP at the crank range ... aftercooled if the higher number (a radiator for extra cooling). Centrifugals will get into the 400 - 480 Hp at the crank (aftercooled for the higher number). Nitrous is selectable. A "50-shot" adds 50 HP. You can get Nitrous systems from 50 to 250 HP shots and even higher ... but you have to PAY for the Nitrous Oxide as you use it. Most Nitrous users run a 75 to 150-shot with 80 to 100 being "normal." A 10-pound bottle will last 3 - 5 runs down the quarter mile, assuming a bottle heater (Nitrous susyem make great power when the pressue is high and constant. When it drops below some number, say 70 psi, then the power drops off).
4. The weak spots in the LS1 Camaro are the clutch (for the manual transmission) and rear end (for both). You can upgrade each for bucks. A good rear end will set you back $1500 to $3000 new. A good clutch will set you back $350 to $800. This is for parts and assumes you do it yourself.
Basic but some stuff I have uncovered ... Welcome!
Please folks, no flames. I'm just trying to pass on some info to a new owner. If you disagree, then send this user YOUR opinion ... I don't want to fight about it. Posts: 67 | From: Monroe, WA | Registered: Jun 2002
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Not flaming, just clearing up a few things (I think you know me well enough!!)
1)he is putting this into a 68 camaro, so a lot of the parts you are thinking about wont work(air box, etc)
2)the difference between a wet and dry nitrous system is not where you inject it (they all get injected ahead of the oxygen sensor,since its in the intake tract), it is how the fuel is added. As you stated, a wet system uses a seperate fuel system and solonoid to inject the fuel in through the nitrous nozzles. A dry system usually uses a different fuel pressure regulator and pump (in the stock system) which raises the fuel pressure dramatically to a pre-determined level, and then that higher pressure is then forcing more fuel to spray through the stock injectors while they are in the "on" mode.
3)some of the parts ideas, like heads and cam, are right on, and apply to your car. I would highly recommend doing this mod while its apart, if you have the cash. You will love the results!!!
Keep us posted on the project! I want to do the same, but will have to hold off installing mine into my 68 for a few years due to cash! Good luck! Posts: 1443 | From: Lake Oswego, Oregon | Registered: Dec 2001
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posted
I agree with DaddySS in that the conversion itself will be the central focus of your endeavor. Just making this combination "fit" will be a very time(read expensive)consuming exercise. After the engineering and research have been done and the installation accomplished, you can then look into the "hotrodding" of the combination. Incidentally Lingenfelter Engineering from Decatur has been doing LS1 mods for years and from what I've heard their work is bulletproof if not exactly cheap.
Posts: 26 | From: rancho cucamonga cal. | Registered: Feb 2002
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posted
OK, here is the latest news on what it takes to install an LS1 into a first gen camaro(mine happens to be a 68 with factory A/C).
1) MUST have the truck oil pan to clear the steering linkage, but the sump and pickup need to be shortened in height about 3 inches for ground clearance. 2) requires both of the tall engine mount stands, but standard engine mounts. 3)fabricate custom mounting plates that bolt to the engine, and then the engine mounts bolt to them. 4)modify the A/C box LH case 1/2 to clear the cylinder head and valve cover(It should be a big block case, as a small block one wont leave enough room to mount the coils, remove the valve cover, or get to the spark plugs). I am not sure if it will clear a non-air heater core pipe, that will have to be checked by somebody without a/c. 5)section the rear center portion of the frame and drop it down approx 1/4" to clear the oil pan. 6)make a custom trans mount.
So thats what it takes to physically mount the engine in the car, so far. I will keep you updated on the trials & tribulations!
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