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Hi there! Looking for some info regarding replacing some very good brake pads that are currently on my SS. I have 38,000 on the clock and the pads were installed at the start to replace originals, along with drilled rotors. The rotors have started to warp and I also need info on the best way to handle this. I have the original rotors with practically no wear on them. I'm told it could cost as much as $100 per wheel to turn the drilled rotors! And I'd have to go to a speed shop to get it done. Would it make sense to get the original rotors drilled and install them? Apparently my drilled ones are Chevy original and then drilled and sold. I think we all know just how good original Camaro rotors are! Any info welcome...thanks,
-------------------- 2000 SS #31, SSOA M00-0031, Cal. plate 00 SS, Ebony black T-Top coupe/onyx black leather, DG Motorsports carbon fiber grill insert with SS logo, power seat, Monsoon CD, M6, !CAGS, Lou's Short Stick, Mobil 1 with engine plaque and filler cap, Whisper Lid, K&N filter, ASR, Bilsteins, BMR shock tower brace, Auburn high torque diff, SLP cat-back dual duals, SLP Y-pipe, chrome ZR-1 5-spoke wheels with SS inserts, GT Cross-Drilled Rotors, B.F. Goodrich G-Force KD's, RS Front Skirts, chromed hood insert, SS mats, cover, dash plaque, key fobs, SSOA car blanket, SLP silver logo plaque opposite SS logo on rear fascia, custom pinstriping on hood scoop, "Camaro" and #31 on rear fascia ...plus Zaino clean! Posts: 350 | From: Chula Vista (San Diego), CA USA | Registered: Dec 2000
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I have no idea why a drilled rotor would cost more to resurface compared to a non drilled one. Seems that someone may be trying to make some big money.Summit Racing and Jegs have some nice pieces that are reasonable priced.
Posts: 5682 | From: Dearborn,Mi. | Registered: Feb 2002
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I find it hard to believe that rotors would cost $100 to turn also. Most I ever paid was $10 per rotor. I can see where maybe drilled rotors would be a little more difficult, but not that much! I'm also suprised that you got that many miles out of original Chevy rotors before they warped. Mine usually last less than 10k, especially if I get on any windy roads in hot weather. Then they warp immediately, if not sooner. I guess first I would shop around and see if you can find a much better price for getting your current rotors turned. If not, I would either go with your originals to save money now (they should last a little while) or take Doug's advice and get some new ones that will get you more service life.
Posts: 58 | From: Vancouver, WA | Registered: Apr 2001
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For about $100 per wheel you can go with powerslots. Why waste your time, effort and money on trying to fix or retro.
Posts: 3403 | From: Woodcliff Lake, NJ, USA | Registered: Dec 2000
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That is insane. It doesnt take any more work to machine a drilled rotor than a non drilled one!! I do them for the porsche shop down the street all the time! Somebody is just trying to rip you off! Good luck! Posts: 1443 | From: Lake Oswego, Oregon | Registered: Dec 2001
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Andy, If my memory is correct, your rotors are the same GT rotors we have on our SS. They're drilled in a slightly different pattern, but the basic rotor is the same. Steve machined ours with no problem (again, if my memory isn't failing me that I remember him telling me he did this).
Posts: 7198 | From: Near Portland, Oregon, USA | Registered: Feb 2000
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Most shops are afraid to cut drilled or slotted rotors. They think it will chew up thier bits. Most that say no, have never even tried. You do have to use a slow cut rate .... can't just speed through them like they normally do on regular rotors (real course cut..).
I've been using AutoZone replacement rotors on the street & track (road race) and they have been great so far, with Hawk pads. NO warping at all!
quote:Originally posted by Hugger69&99: I'm also suprised that you got that many miles out of original Chevy rotors before they warped.
I'm at 54,000 + on the original rotors and pads with zero problems.
Maybe they put different rotors in the Canadian cars! I have 71,000 km. on my original rotors (turned once at 22,000 km.) and I beat the crap outta my brakes with 4 or 5 high-speed lapping days a season and 4-5 autoX events per season also. I have a couple of theories: 1) a major cause of warpage on our rotors is a result of over-torquing the lug nuts with an impact wrench. Whenever a wheel comes off the car, the lug nuts are always hand-torqued. This was a huge problem with the rotors on the original SHO and that was the cause. 2) use "rotor-friendly" pads. I use a very soft pad (GM Durastop "Reds")that are absolutely filthy and give me 12,000 km. on a set of pads - max.! But I love the feel of them on the track and they are not very susceptible to fade. Besides, I still have my original rotors! 3) brake pads also require a proper break-in so they can "seat" properly. I have seen people track a car with brand new pads and live to regret it!! Not pretty when the pads don't release from the rotors! FWIW.
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by M3EATER: [QB]I should add that I also baked the pads & rotors @ 350 deg for an hour .......then, did a proper break-in & seating procedure.
This can make the difference between trouble & long trouble free operation.
Gordon, I seem to recall hearing about some type of a freezing process being applied to new rotors - have you ever heard of this? Your suggestion to bake them sounds interesting! Would you mind explaining the theory behind baking the rotors before intallation? And if you know anything about this freezing process (I think the rotors are sent away to somebody and who "cryogenically freezes" them and then returns them to you. Cost = $25/rotor) could you perhaps explain that theory? TIA
if you get new rotors, I suggest you have them slotted instead of drilled... you'll have all the same benefits, without creating stress point in the rotor... if you race the car, you'll see the difference. My 13" curved-vane slotted rotors got worn in 1 year (not warped, though)... need to get cyrogenic treatment on my next set... these races give a beating to the brakes.
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I'm also suprised that you got that many miles out of original Chevy rotors before they warped. Mine usually last less than 10k, especially if I get on any windy roads in hot weather. Then they warp immediately, if not sooner. I guess first I would shop around and see if you can find a much better price for getting your current rotors turned. If not, I would either go with your originals to save money now (they should last a little while) or take Doug's advice and get some new ones that will get you more service life.
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