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Hi all. Just purchased a 96 SS,Red,M6,26K Miles, and NO T-tops ! Bought the car sight unseen from Friendly Chevrolet in Tacoma, WA.(I did have a friend in the area go check it out) No disappontments when I saw it. Made it from Seattle back to Memphis in 40 hours including a 5 hour nap in Laramie, WY. I LOVE this car!
Got it home, detailed it , and now it shares the garage with my 2 other Supersports , they of the 2 wheeled Ducati Variety.
I see from some other posts that my weeping pinion seal is fairly common. Was planning on changing the grease when I fix that. From looking under the car it looks as if I'll have to remove the sway bar to get the cover off. Is this true ? Is it relatively easy to do ? I'm leaning to Redline synthetic grease. Any recommendations as to viscosity. (I haven't gotten ahold of a factory service manual yet) The car has the Torsen Diff. Am I correct in my understanding that this type diff doesn't require the special GM posi lube additive?
Next issue is a low load, low RPM stumble. Haven't put a code scanner on it yet but I think it might be a bad EGR valve. In the good trail of paperwork that came with the car there was a letter from Chevy acknowledging a problem with these valves on some of these model year cars. Anyone else had this problem. Will Chevy warranty it since it's part of the emissions system ? If not, where is it located and is it difficult to replace. The one on my old 5.0 Mustang was a piece of cake. Could I be so lucky twice ?
Car came with an SLP strut tower brace. Still trying to decide between the weld in or bolt on SFC's. No racing or HARD driving in the plans , just want to stave off the assorted squeaks and rattles that come from stiffly sprung unibody cars and lousy roads.
Going to change to Amsoil. I assume this car uses the PF-25 filter. Will the larger PF-35 fit ?
Sorry for the lengthy post. I'll save my other questions for another time. TIA
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Welcome to the board!Sounds like a nice SS you picked up.I never heard of the rear sway bar being removed to change the rear diff fluid.If you need to remove the sway bar it is real easy.Just unbolt the end links and sway bar bushings.You car may still be covered under the 8 year/80,000 mile emission warranty.You local Chevy dealer could run your VIN and let you know if there are any outstanding recalls too.
-------------------- Current ride is: 2002 Brickyard 400 35th Anniversary LE convertible #22,SLP build# 0036,35th Anniversary Build #47 EMCC Member #234 www.emcamaro.org WCA Member #197582 MMCC Member #28 NEOCC Member #634 Posts: 5682 | From: Dearborn,Mi. | Registered: Feb 2002
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The newer cars have the Torsen stock now and since I blew mine up I asked how much additive and was told that I did NOT need any with that rear. The best thing to do is call SLP and ask them.
Posts: 1218 | From: DFW, TX, USA | Registered: Feb 2000
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The sway bar does not need to be removed. As the axle drops the sway bar will swing down out of the way. If you are jacking under the diff just remember to watch for this so that the bar does not hook on the jack pad as you let the jack down. (Been there, done that...)
I believe the correct viscosity for the diff fluid id 75W90, and no you do not need the additive for the Torsen diff. The additive is a friction modifier for clutch pack limited slips.
I believe the EGR valve on LT1s (I have an LS1) is behind the intake manifold and is held in place with two bolts. The low load, low RPM stumble could also be a lazy O2 sensor.
Good luck.
Bill M 98 TA
Posts: 383 | From: Oakville, Ontario Canada | Registered: Jan 2003
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Thanks guys. It is 75W90 grease. I actually found a link somewhere to a ZEXEL TORSEN site and saw that they had sent a service bulletin to GM recommending adding the special GM posi lube to combat what some owners were calling a "rusty screw" noise coming from the rear end. I figured it couldn't hurt anything so I put a couple of ounces in there along with the Amsoil grease. Bill you may be right. I ran a code scanner on it and got a bank #2 02 sensor low voltage reading. I think I'll try that before going after the plugs and wires.
Posts: 5 | From: Memphis,TN | Registered: Apr 2003
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I don't know how widespread the EGR valve problem is but I did just have to replace mine in my 96. I didn't do it myself so I haven't any helpful advice. I never checked to see if it would be under warranty.
Posts: 2 | From: Flint, Mi | Registered: Aug 2003
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