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» www.chirpthird.com » General Discussion » F-Body: Technical Forum » Removing Hurst Shift Knob

   
Author Topic: Removing Hurst Shift Knob
30AnnySS
1st Gear
Member # 1985

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Stupid question, how is the "factory" leather wrapped hurst knob attached to the stick? I dont see any jamb nut on the bottom to hold the knob in the correct position, and it doesnt unscrew easily, i'm guessing its got some type of thread locker/epoxy holding it in place? I was considering putting a white 6 speed hurst ball on, but don't want to damage the original leather knob, as I may grow tired of the white ball.

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#0050 30th SS M6 Coupe with 4700 miles... Click for a pic!

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Posts: 88 | From: PA | Registered: Aug 2003  |  IP: Logged
OBSSD
3rd Gear
Member # 1258

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Mine came loose when it was only a month old. Looked like the factory just used lock-tite. I'm guessing it's the same on a '97.

[ 27. August 2003, 04:22 PM: Message edited by: OBSSD ]

Posts: 1143 | From: Portland, OR | Registered: Nov 2001  |  IP: Logged
30AnnySS
1st Gear
Member # 1985

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So basically your saying if i just haul on it, it'll come loose without damage? Anyone else have a 97? The knob IS a little different looking than the later model Hursts, but I assume they all probably go on the same way.
Posts: 88 | From: PA | Registered: Aug 2003  |  IP: Logged
poSSum
AutoXer
Member # 119

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They just turn off ...but can be tight.

In my '99 Zed it was so tight I ended up having to remove the console insert with the shift handle in order to get the knob into a vice and then used vice-grips to turn the handle. I think the knob will still be okay.

To get the knob facing the right way I've added washers on the inside to get it to stop at the right spot.

Posts: 4222 | From: Winnipeg MB CA | Registered: Feb 2000  |  IP: Logged
sl63409
New Member
Member # 2013

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Put a rag underneath and around the shaft and very carefully inject a little bit of Liquid Wrench (_not_ WD-40), through the nozzle using the very lightest of touch (this stuff will wick up like crazy, so don't over do the pressure on the nozzle). Let soak for a few minutes.

Take a hand towel, fold into halfs or thirds, lengthwise (so it's long and thin). Loop the middle of the towel around the shift knob. Twist the two ends down tight and snug to form a real tight grip around the knob. Turn.

Good luck.

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Stuart-
member Pacific Northwest Camaro Club
2002 35th Anniversary SS - #C063, 345HP (SLP/Blackwing Lid, CME), 1LE, Auburn, ASR, Hurst Billet (aftermarket), Hurst knob, LSS, Hotchkiss STB, Mobil-1 cap & sticker, SLP Engine Plaque, Fobs, Portfolio, Trophy Mat, 12-disc, SLP 35th Anniversary Grill, !CAGS,
"blackout" rear valance, Afterthoughts Dash Plaque, MacEwen gauges, Corvette FRC's, "SS" valve stem caps, Goetz SFC's

Posts: 16 | From: Pacific Northwest / Puget Sound region | Registered: Aug 2003  |  IP: Logged
sl63409
New Member
Member # 2013

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quote:
Originally posted by poSSum:
...
To get the knob facing the right way I've added washers on the inside to get it to stop at the right spot.

Ditto. I put a couple steel washers and one or two rubber washers so I had some lattitude on how to fine tune it to "just the way I wanted it" [Smile] . The rubber kept it from being tightened down in only one spot, essentially. I have the SLP/Hurst leather knob that is curved foward and I really, really like it. I've got it set left, about 20-25 degrees.

Stuart

[ 27. August 2003, 11:34 PM: Message edited by: sl63409 ]

Posts: 16 | From: Pacific Northwest / Puget Sound region | Registered: Aug 2003  |  IP: Logged
   

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