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Author Topic: REAR END HOUSING
MOO4340
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2nd Gear
Member # 471

Icon 1 posted 24 March, 2001 03:49 AM      Profile for MOO4340   Author's Homepage   Email MOO4340         Edit/Delete Post 
Most of the pics that have been posted on the message boards showing rear end housings are all in the same condition, RUSTED. Is there anything that can be done to eliminate this un-sightly problem. My 2000SS has been rusty since the day it was delivered. Since it never gets driven in the rain, stays in dry garage covered, I do not understand.
SLP# MOO4340
2000SS M-6 W/Hurst & White Knob
Dark Blue Met. Tan Leather Interior
Billet Grille w/69' SS Emblems
GMMG Chambered Exhaust/Polished
Power Ant. by Speedometer Service
RACE GLAZED EXTERIOR
Air Lid w/Amsoil Hi-Po Filter
All Amsoil Synthetics
Key Fobs/Plaque
Chrome Ten Spokes/On the Way

Posts: 251 | From: Dallas, Georgia usa | Registered: May 2000  |  IP: Logged
DaddySS
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Old Coot.....50 going on 20
Member # 848

Icon 1 posted 24 March, 2001 06:16 AM      Profile for DaddySS   Email DaddySS         Edit/Delete Post 
First, the reason they're rusted is the supplier if the housings builds a supply of them and then srores them outside waiting for shipment to GM. They do little in the way of rust protection fron the start so they rust immediayely.

There is a paint made spcifically for csat iron parts that has excellent rust protection qualities, it's used for engine blocks, exhaust manifolds, etc. I don't remember the name, but ask your autoparts store or maybe someone on this board knows.

To clean it up, you'll need some wire bushes and sand paper. If memory serves, once you get most of the heavy stuff off, you can apply the paint as your primer coat. Then you can paint the housing black and with a couple of coats it will stay that way for a long time.

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2000 SS Convertible, M6, Onyx
Ebony leather, Hurst, Monsoon, 12 CD
SLP Options: Syntech, Mats, Fobs, Plaque, Cover.
SLP add ons:SS Grille, SLP Lid & K&N, smooth bellows, SLP CAI....
Other Add Ons: TTS LT headers Y Pipe and Cats, TR 220, LS6 Intake, GMMG, ASP underdrive pulley, Hypertech 180 stat, Granatelli MAF, Rapid Motor Sports custom tuning, BMR STB, LCAs, Relocation brackets, Adj. Panhard, Don Goetz bolt on SFCs, Hotchkis springs, Hurst Billet Plus shifter
Appearance: FRCs with afterthoughts SS overlays, Mark's Caliper decals on black painted calipers, AR TTIIs (Gunmetal Spokes) with BFG Gforce T/A KDWs...

96 Impala SS Black
Flowmasters
SSOA, WCA, NAISSO


Posts: 3403 | From: Woodcliff Lake, NJ, USA | Registered: Dec 2000  |  IP: Logged
mhayman
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2nd Gear
Member # 146

Icon 1 posted 24 March, 2001 11:14 AM      Profile for mhayman   Author's Homepage   Email mhayman         Edit/Delete Post 
its called POR-15 and it works great!! it actually bonds to the rust.
http://www.por15.com



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Mark H.

Whoever said you couldn't run away from your problems obviously wasn't driving an SS.


Posts: 942 | From: Santa Barbara and Ventura, CA | Registered: Feb 2000  |  IP: Logged
Bolide
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1st Gear
Member # 373

Icon 1 posted 26 March, 2001 10:02 PM      Profile for Bolide   Author's Homepage   Email Bolide         Edit/Delete Post 
Easiest way to eliminate the problem (I had the same thing on my 2000 SS--rusty from the day I saw it at the dealer's) is to replace the stamped diff cover with a cast aluminum cover / girdle. Tom Byrne sells the T/A performance cover for around $155, as do several other sites. You get a cover that helps strengthen the rear axle, increases rear-end component life, has filler and drain plugs, looks great and will never rust.
See picture here:


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Paul Zink, Chicago, IL. SSOA Member #M00-1181; 2000 Camaro SS, SLP No. 1181, Light Pewter, M6, T-Tops, all options.
[bMODS and UPGRADES: [/b]
Direct-Flo lid, SLP cold air box, Shaner S2, MBA MAF ends, JBA headers, SLP Loud Mouth exhaust, Y-Pipe, SuperTrapp mufflers,
SLP Eibach-Bilstein suspension, Addco 32mm/22mm solid swaybars, PST bushings, TByrne LCAs & Panhard Rod, BMR LCA relocation brackets, SLP Shock Tower Brace, SFCs, Richmond 3.73 gears, B & M shifter, SLP TCS Reversal, TA Performance diff cover, Random Technology Torque Arm, PowerSlot rotors, Earl's lines, 160 Thermostat, Red Line Oil, SLP �SS� grille, mats, dash plaque, key fobs, �SS� deck lid mat, MBA pedals, White-face gauges, burlwood interior, Wheelskins shifter boot and wheel cover, custom Fuel Rail Covers, Aluminum sill covers.

Dyno Results from Sept 14, 2003: 328.1 RWHP
Photo below: Getting ready for Halloween Car show, Oct. 2001

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Car Web page: http://members.cardomain.com/ssport

Posts: 83 | From: Chicago, IL | Registered: Mar 2000  |  IP: Logged
MOO4340
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2nd Gear
Member # 471

Icon 1 posted 27 March, 2001 06:29 AM      Profile for MOO4340   Author's Homepage   Email MOO4340         Edit/Delete Post 
Appreciate the tip, but my whole axle and differencial cover is rusted. I have used some derust spray, washed it off, and then sprayed a coat of clear on top of it. Really does not look any better. Hate to paint over all the nuts, bolts and decals that are factory. The only way I see it is, the whole this taken out, taken apart, painted and reassembled. Man what a chore!
SLP# 4340
KICKBACK

Posts: 251 | From: Dallas, Georgia usa | Registered: May 2000  |  IP: Logged
   

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