Need some advice. Other than starting the SS a couple of times a week, what do you do to keep your cars operating during the winter?
The roads here are coated with salt, etc., and the car hasn't been driven very much. Does anyone use a fuel stabilizer to keep the fuel from deteriorating., etc.?
Thanks for the help.
-------------------- '99 SS #1392 BLACK; NEUTRAL LEATHER M6; T-TOPS; DUAL/DUAL PERFORMANCE EXHAUST; SS KEY FOBS/PLAQUE MODIFICATIONS; - SLP L/T HEADERS;SLP Y-PIPE;RANDOM TECH HIGH-FLOW CATS - SLP LOUDMOUTH - SS GRILLE - HOTCHKISS STB - MTI CARBON FIBER LID W/ SS EMBLEMS - PRO 5.O SHIFTER/LOU'S SHORT STICK - CHROME ZR1'S/BFG KDW'S - SS MATTS - TROPHY MATT - K&N - ZAINO Posts: 13 | From: NEWTOWN, PA. USA | Registered: Jan 2001
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Stabil for the gas. Any auto parts store should have it.
-------------------- SLP#3579 LE#1533 A pair of 35th Anny drinking chairs. Every thing else is just "Fluff" Rio Grande "Swim" Coach Posts: 3091 | From: Canton Mi. | Registered: Oct 2002
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I run my SS while in winter storage every 2 weeks or so for at least a half hour. I never use Sta-Bil or any kind of fuel preservator. If the car was to sit for more than a year then maybe I would store it with Sta-Bil in the tank. Posts: 5682 | From: Dearborn,Mi. | Registered: Feb 2002
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Some people put them up on jack stands, trickle charge the battery, put additives in the fuel, start them occasionally and let them run awhile (this doesn't do what most people think), etc.
We just park 'em in the garage, leave the windows down an inch or two for air circulation, put a Dri-Z-Air in a plastic wash tub on the passenger side floor, cover them with a good car cover and let them sit until spring. It's only for a few months and no, your tires won't flat spot.
I have noticed that after it has sat for a week or so, and I take it for a ride, I'm guessing the tires are a little flat spotted, or the pressure just needs to build in the tires as for the first couple of miles, the ride is a little rough.
I havent had any problems with it starting (fingers crossed) and I was just a little concerned about the fuel.
Thanks again!
Ed
-------------------- '99 SS #1392 BLACK; NEUTRAL LEATHER M6; T-TOPS; DUAL/DUAL PERFORMANCE EXHAUST; SS KEY FOBS/PLAQUE MODIFICATIONS; - SLP L/T HEADERS;SLP Y-PIPE;RANDOM TECH HIGH-FLOW CATS - SLP LOUDMOUTH - SS GRILLE - HOTCHKISS STB - MTI CARBON FIBER LID W/ SS EMBLEMS - PRO 5.O SHIFTER/LOU'S SHORT STICK - CHROME ZR1'S/BFG KDW'S - SS MATTS - TROPHY MATT - K&N - ZAINO Posts: 13 | From: NEWTOWN, PA. USA | Registered: Jan 2001
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When I lived in the north, I learned the hard way back in the 70's that running your car every couple of weeks wasn't very good for it when it was in storage. It was the days before stainless steel exhaust sytems and you were almost guaranteed to rust out your exhaust system because the pipes would never get hot enough to burn off all the moisture created by idling the car a half hour or so. To some extent the same thing is happening in your engine. So, in my opinion you build up way more moisture inside the engine than can evaporate in the half hour period. With the seals in modern engines, you also don't have to worry about them drying out which was the case with older cars that sat for long periods of time. So essentially, I believe that running the engine may be more harmfull than just letting the car sit idle for four months.
After my first experiences(of running the engines), I never did that again. All my cars sat for four or five months during the cold Ohio winters. I never had anything adverse happen to them because of letting them sit.
-------------------- Dave S Black 2000 Camaro SS Posts: 502 | From: Fort Mill, South Carolina....Charlotte | Registered: Aug 2003
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Yes, if you're not going to let it fully warm up, take the revs up, and move it so the transmission and rear end gears get lubricated, then leave it alone.
-------------------- 2000 SS Convertible, M6, Onyx Ebony leather, Hurst, Monsoon, 12 CD SLP Options: Syntech, Mats, Fobs, Plaque, Cover. SLP add ons:SS Grille, SLP Lid & K&N, smooth bellows, SLP CAI.... Other Add Ons: TTS LT headers Y Pipe and Cats, TR 220, LS6 Intake, GMMG, ASP underdrive pulley, Hypertech 180 stat, Granatelli MAF, Rapid Motor Sports custom tuning, BMR STB, LCAs, Relocation brackets, Adj. Panhard, Don Goetz bolt on SFCs, Hotchkis springs, Hurst Billet Plus shifter Appearance: FRCs with afterthoughts SS overlays, Mark's Caliper decals on black painted calipers, AR TTIIs (Gunmetal Spokes) with BFG Gforce T/A KDWs...
96 Impala SS Black Flowmasters SSOA, WCA, NAISSO Posts: 3403 | From: Woodcliff Lake, NJ, USA | Registered: Dec 2000
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quote:Originally posted by SS_CarGuy: When I lived in the north, I learned the hard way back in the 70's that running your car every couple of weeks wasn't very good for it when it was in storage. It was the days before stainless steel exhaust sytems and you were almost guaranteed to rust out your exhaust system because the pipes would never get hot enough to burn off all the moisture created by idling the car a half hour or so. To some extent the same thing is happening in your engine. So, in my opinion you build up way more moisture inside the engine than can evaporate in the half hour period. ... So essentially, I believe that running the engine may be more harmfull than just letting the car sit idle for four months.
What he said. If you are not going to drive the car on the road long enough to get it up to operating temperature, don't even bother starting it (for the previously aforementioned reasons)so that it idles for 20-30 min. This is the 6th winter for my '98 and I have been able to get the car out on the road for a good 1/2 - 1 hr. boot on the highway at least once every 3 weeks or so when the roads are dry and that does the trick (along with my very cooperative insurance agent ) As far as the fuel is concerned, if you are going to be running fuel that is 4-5 mos. old in the spring when you take it out of storage, keep in mind that the octane level will be sharply reduced, as fuel loses its octane over time. Therefore, drive it very easy until the old gas is burned up and replaced with fresh stuff. I know a couple of people who have grenaded their boat engines by hammering the throttle with old gas in the tank. I don't know if the same scenario could take place in our car engines, but you gotta know that that running an engine up to redline on bad fuel isn't gonna do it any good.
posted
I always started my cars once a month during the Winter and put fuel stabilizer in them as well. Posts: 2841 | From: Westland, MI | Registered: Apr 2003
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Try taking disconnecting the battery if it sets for more than three weeks...just put in a new battery last week..on 2914 miles on the odometer...2000SS Coupe...Try installing a good synthetic like Amsoil in the cars complete running gear, engine, transmission, and rear in. Cuts down on any condensation that might otherwise gather in regular pertroleum products. MOO 4340 KICK-BACK
Posts: 251 | From: Dallas, Georgia usa | Registered: May 2000
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What others have said about starting engines and letting them idle. This is not a good idea.
The reason is that the oil does not get hot enough to boil off condensation and other contaminants. The only way this will happen is if you drive it.
Over the course of the winter the condensation and contaminants build up (if you do not drive it) and the bearings can get scoured.
Best bet is is leave it alone, and start it in the spring when you take it out of storage.
Posts: 383 | From: Oakville, Ontario Canada | Registered: Jan 2003
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In addition to Stabil in the fuel, and running it every two weeks, I put plywood on the garage floor to minimize moisture from the cement floor getting to the undercarriage. I've also started running the air conditioner (don't laugh) briefly every 6 weeks or so. I read somewhere that the bearings in the compresser can dry out if it's not run for a long period. It must be a Canadian thing running the air conditioner when it's below freezing. It's almost like driving with your 'vert top down in sub-zero weather (I wonder who would do that?). Posts: 2359 | From: Waterloo, Ontario, Canada | Registered: Jul 2001
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quote:Originally posted by JohnS: In addition to Stabil in the fuel, and running it every two weeks, I put plywood on the garage floor to minimize moisture from the cement floor getting to the undercarriage. I've also started running the air conditioner (don't laugh) briefly every 6 weeks or so. I read somewhere that the bearings in the compresser can dry out if it's not run for a long period. It must be a Canadian thing running the air conditioner when it's below freezing. It's almost like driving with your 'vert top down in sub-zero weather (I wonder who would do that?).
The bearings don't dry out... its the seals that dry out... and you are correct you should run the A/C. I never use the A/C in the summer because I always ride with my tops out... but I do run the system every once and a while to keep it working...
-------------------- 2002 SS #5973 Posts: 1045 | From: Seattle, WA | Registered: Nov 2001
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our two ss's are in the heated garage[50*] i put the frame up on stands and take about half the weight off the suspension, also put trouble light with 60 watt yellow bulb in it keeps dampness out, car cover and battery tender. of course zaino'd!! Posts: 42 | From: OLYMPIA ,WASHINGTON | Registered: Aug 2003
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I drive mine most of the time but for weeks it will sit sometimes...like 6 to 8 weeks when the rains are around,,,then it wont start & needs a jump, would a trikel charge work on this problem ?
Thanks for any info
-------------------- 97' SS Droptop Low, Loud, Fast & Black Posts: 468 | From: Ventura,Ca. | Registered: Jun 2002
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Put the charger on once a month, windows cracked an inch and covered. Anything else is just nonsense. The gas we have these days won't go bad in the 4-5 months we store them and starting them every few weeks or once a month is worse than not starting at all as stated above.
-------------------- 2001 Camaro SS SOM M6 #4577 SLP Chrome 10 spoke wheels, Jet Hot LT's & true duals, BMR LCA & PHB, Pro 5.0, lid, ftra, slp-sfc, S2 TB, Harlan Shiftlight My Website Posts: 556 | From: Warren, MI | Registered: Jan 2001
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quote:Originally posted by JohnS: I've also started running the air conditioner (don't laugh) briefly every 6 weeks or so. I read somewhere that the bearings in the compresser can dry out if it's not run for a long period. It must be a Canadian thing running the air conditioner when it's below freezing.
Maybe someone can correct me if I'm mistaken, but I thought that our A/C compressors are running when the dial is in the "Defrost" position. That would preclude purposely running the A/C in the winter to lubricate the seals, since it would be happening anyway in the "Defrost" mode. When I get a chance to drive the SS in the winter, you can bet I've got the defroster on. I'm another one who rarely uses the A/C in the summer, which is when I make a specific point of turning it on in order to lubricate the seals. Just another crazy Canuck doing everything backasswards again!
posted
I fill the tank with fuel, park the SS on plywood sheets like JohnS. does, disconnect the battery and don't start it again until spring when it's time to start enjoying the ride again.
This winter, I also hooked a 60 watt bulb up to a dehumidistat control and put the bulb under the hood. I'm hoping that the engine will stay dry on damp days in order to keep the aluminum parts from oxidizing.
-------------------- 2002 LE convertible with all GM options LE #3079, SLP Build #C410
All SLP options except Auburn & G-Force D. Goetz Fabrications STB and bolt-on SFCs, SLP LT headers and cats, Gentex mirror, power antenna with control switch, engine plaque, Mobile 1 applique and oil filler cap Posts: 137 | From: Fergus, Ontario, Canada | Registered: Feb 2003
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I've owned my Camaro for almost 15 years now and have kept in heated garages and unheated over the years . Yes a very good idea running the AC unit when you're able to run the car and yes I agree about heating up the engine enough to get the exhaust good and hot. Also I use Stabil every winter and have had no problems with my gas in the Spring when starting or running it , so I feel a good thing. Also I fill the gas tank as full as I can get it that way no room for condesation while sitting. Yes I do get flat spots on my tires after sitting long period of times and it does probably depends on what kind of tires you have. Mine were BF Goodriches. So for this fact I use a set of spares wheels to store it on for the winter and leave my polished wheels in my heated basement. This way I can take the Camaro out for a short spin when the roads are not wet and salted. My AC unit is finally giving out on the Freon but after 14 years this past summer I consider this pretty good ,so a conversion to the new freon is in the future. BTW I bought my RS brand new in April of 1989 and have had it garaged since day one with now 47,753 miles on it to date ,
posted
My Pro Strret Z is on jack stands, my SS is on carpet, other than that, I do nothing. I have never had a problem. I have been doing this with the 79 for 17 years, never had a problem.
-------------------- 1998 SS convertible NBM Neutral 1st Saleable SS Vert in 98 1979 Pro Street Z-28 Posts: 316 | From: Pekin Illinois | Registered: Jan 2003
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I thik everyone has you covered but I'll throw in my technique anyway.
My cars sit in a heated garage (52 degrees).
I put 40lbs pressure in the tires on the stock rims, take the chrome rims off and stack them. Open the window half way, put Stabil in a full tank of fuel and that's it. I put the cover on and leave it for a few months. When I get it out, I change the oil, put the chromies back on and drive it easy through the tank of fuel, then it's normal driving after that.
[ 24. January 2004, 09:09 AM: Message edited by: DanA_F99_1977 ]
Posts: 5946 | From: Litchfield, NH, USA | Registered: Feb 2000
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Either drive it for 20-30 minutes or just let it sit. Its better to let it sit than just starting it in the garage.
-------------------- http://community.webshots.com/user/sscamaro02 AMERICAN CAMARO ASSOCIATION 2002 SS (M02-2022)(Build Date 9/10/01) T-Top,Bright Rally Red,Ebony Leather,Hurst Shifter,SLP Options: 345HP,SS Grille,SS Floor Mats,Personalized SS Rear Deck Mat,17"X 9" ZR1 Type Chrome Wheels,SS Cover,Engine Plaque. Additional Mods:GMMG Chambered Exhaust,FLP LT Headers,SLP CAI,K&N Filter,Silver Hood Stripes, Silver Letters on Rear Facia and Spohn Performance LCA, Panhard,SFC and Adj. Torq Arm w/Drive Shaft Loops.384/rwhp and 381/rwtq
1969 SS396 Olympic Gold.Unrestored,L34(350HP),M21 close ratio 4-Speed,Cowl Hood,Spoilers Front and Rear,Console w/Gages.Second owner since Nov.1971. 1 of 2018 Produced Posts: 828 | From: Denver,PA | Registered: Dec 2001
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quote:Originally posted by Elie Garfinkel: Maybe someone can correct me if I'm mistaken, but I thought that our A/C compressors are running when the dial is in the "Defrost" position. That would preclude purposely running the A/C in the winter to lubricate the seals, since it would be happening anyway in the "Defrost" mode. When I get a chance to drive the SS in the winter, you can bet I've got the defroster on. I'm another one who rarely uses the A/C in the summer, which is when I make a specific point of turning it on in order to lubricate the seals. Just another crazy Canuck doing everything backasswards again!
Best regardSS,
Elie [/QB]
It the ambient temp is below 30 degrees F ,good chance the a/c compressor won't engage anyway.Below a certain temp the freon changes from gas to a liquid and the a/c compressor can't pump liquid without possible damage to the compressor. Posts: 5682 | From: Dearborn,Mi. | Registered: Feb 2002
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quote:Originally posted by MOO4340: [QB] Try taking disconnecting the battery if it sets for more than three weeks...
I tried that last year and wound up replacing the module for the kill switch I put in.Now I have a battery tender to keep the battery up.Dont know if any other eletronics could be effected.
-------------------- SLP#3579 LE#1533 A pair of 35th Anny drinking chairs. Every thing else is just "Fluff" Rio Grande "Swim" Coach Posts: 3091 | From: Canton Mi. | Registered: Oct 2002
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quote:Originally posted by MOO4340: [QB] Try taking disconnecting the battery if it sets for more than three weeks...
I tried that last year and wound up replacing the module for the kill switch I put in.Now I have a battery tender to keep the battery up.Dont know if any other eletronics could be effected.
Those battery tenders are great. Posts: 2841 | From: Westland, MI | Registered: Apr 2003
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I don't know if the same scenario could take place in our car engines, but you gotta know that that running an engine up to redline on bad fuel isn't gonna do it any good.
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