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With 44,000 plus miles on the SS like so many of us I've been driving on warped OEM rotors for awhile so I bought some TRW Power Stops from Jegs. Put them on in the garage today along with Bosch ceramic pads. With 44K miles the stock pads had alot of life left in them. Hated to remove them but oh well. After driving around the complex here to seat the pads I took to the street. There is ALOT of difference for the better with this set up. There is some very slight noise when you come to a stop. The stock setup made none. This may go away with some ware in. Small price to pay for a major improvement in stopping power.
-------------------- 2001 SS,Black over Onyx,4L60E,Dual Dual, ZR1's, SS Grill, Key Fobs & Dash Plaque, SLP LT's & Y-Pipe, Random Tech cats, K & N, SLP Air lid, SLP Smooth Bellow, SLP CAI, AAM/SLP Diff cover, MSD Wires, Denso Iridium Plugs, Perma Cool Trans cooler, SLP Strut tower brace, B.F. Goodrich KD's. Sylvania Silver Star Headlamps, TRW Power Stop Drilled rotors, BOSCH Ceramic pads, Dyno'd 10/22/02 355.5 HP, 355.6 TRQ, Edelbrock IAS Shocks with Eibach springs, SLP 32mm Front swaybar, SLP Panhard rod & rear lower control arms. Posts: 7 | From: Henderson Nevada | Registered: Jan 2004
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Congrats on the rotors. When the time comes I may use Baer Rotors and calipers. Ihave heard greats news about these. Posts: 2841 | From: Westland, MI | Registered: Apr 2003
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... well, the proper terminalogy is to 'bed' the pads and 'season' the rotors. Driving around your complex didn't really do either. The 'improved' feeling you're feeling is from just installing new equipment. The noise is from not 'bedding' or 'seasoning'.
To properly season the rotors, drive for about 15 minutes without any hard stopping. Return home and let them cool completely. Do that about 3 or 4 times. Then go out and find a place that you can run the car up to about 60, stop hard (without lockup) to about 5, then back up to 60, then down to 5 and then a third time and get right on the freeway. Drive the car without using the brakes for 15 to 20, return home and let cool completely. The brakes are now ready to perform. I just wouldn't recommend any (real) road racing activity with drilled rotors. They'll last a long time on the street, though. Regular car maintainence should include checking the rotors for cracks between the holes. I've never had the pleasure of experiencing the 'warped OEM rotor' phenominum. I took my originals off at 18K for some GMPP rotors. And I started using GM DuraStop pads on the street. Great wet weather pads, just a little dusty. The original rotors became my spares, since I Open Tracked the car at some of the premiere road racing tracks here on the East Coast. I run the Hawk 'black' pad at the track. After about 30K, I replaced them with some Brembo blanks. Now at 70K on the clock, they still do well. It's all about care and maintainence.
"The tree of Liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of Patriots and Tyrants" (Thomas Jefferson) Posts: 1446 | From: Germantown, MD USA | Registered: Feb 2000
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quote:... well, the proper terminalogy is to 'bed' the pads and 'season' the rotors. Driving around your complex didn't really do either. The 'improved' feeling you're feeling is from just installing new equipment. The noise is from not 'bedding' or 'seasoning'.
Bosch pads are seasoned at the factory so there good to go out of the box. No seasoning required.
Posts: 7 | From: Henderson Nevada | Registered: Jan 2004
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quote:Originally posted by 99 HOSS: ... well, the proper terminalogy is to 'bed' the pads and 'season' the rotors. Driving around your complex didn't really do either. The 'improved' feeling you're feeling is from just installing new equipment. The noise is from not 'bedding' or 'seasoning'.
To properly season the rotors, drive for about 15 minutes without any hard stopping. Return home and let them cool completely. Do that about 3 or 4 times. Then go out and find a place that you can run the car up to about 60, stop hard (without lockup) to about 5, then back up to 60, then down to 5 and then a third time and get right on the freeway. Drive the car without using the brakes for 15 to 20, return home and let cool completely. The brakes are now ready to perform. I just wouldn't recommend any (real) road racing activity with drilled rotors. They'll last a long time on the street, though. Regular car maintainence should include checking the rotors for cracks between the holes. I've never had the pleasure of experiencing the 'warped OEM rotor' phenominum. I took my originals off at 18K for some GMPP rotors. And I started using GM DuraStop pads on the street. Great wet weather pads, just a little dusty. The original rotors became my spares, since I Open Tracked the car at some of the premiere road racing tracks here on the East Coast. I run the Hawk 'black' pad at the track. After about 30K, I replaced them with some Brembo blanks. Now at 70K on the clock, they still do well. It's all about care and maintainence.
For good brakes and rotors depends on what you want to do. There are alot of high dollar rotors out there that are more for the looks than what you gain in other ways. As a auto-x and road racer drilled rotors will crack from the heat at the drilled holes. Sloted rotors look good and do ok. Most of the time factory rotors warp from having the rims put on with a air wrench and noy installed with a torque wrench to specs. About any good rotor or pads thats good for wet and last for awhile is about as good as another. 99 Hoss will tell you if he runs his car that how quick it stops is not really the rotors or pads but the tires. The tires stop the car as all brakes and rotors will lock the wheels up and its up to the tires to stop the car.
-------------------- Willard (Mike) Scott Worldwide Camaro Club North Carolina state Rep. 2001 SS convertible with all SLP opts. Sunset Orange Neutral top Neutral leather http://community.webshots.com/user/wmss Posts: 737 | From: Siler City N.C. | Registered: Sep 2003
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quote:Bosch pads are seasoned at the factory so there good to go out of the box. No seasoning required.
I don't really buy that, maybe because of the hi-performance driving I do. Maybe for easy street driving, though. Here's what that say over at Wilwood:
quote:PAD BEDDING: All Wilwood brake pads are ready to use right out of the box. However, the performance of any brake pad will always improve after some bedding time. Each friction compound is engineered to provide optimal friction values, and maximum wear resistance within a specific temperature range. Since the compound materials vary, the bedding temperature requirements can also vary. The required bedding temperature is usually relative to the pad’s intended operating temperature range.
Proper bedding starts with the new pads being run through one complete heat cycle, and then cooled before using them in race conditions. Best performance and overall results will come from bedding new pads on an already bedded, or “seasoned” rotor. Used rotors must be flat and smooth. New pads can be effectively bedded to new rotors, if some care is taken at first break-in.
One of the most important comments made in that quote refers to the operating temp of the pad for your intended purpose. You can't run a race pad on the street because it won't get hot enough to work. Much like you'll cook your street pads (rather quickly) at the track because of the demands placed on them. During some of the track events that I attend, it's not uncommon to see 400 degree pad and rotor temps. Depending on the track. You'd be lucky to see half that on the street, under normal driving conditions.
Posts: 1446 | From: Germantown, MD USA | Registered: Feb 2000
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quote:99 Hoss will tell you if he runs his car that how quick it stops is not really the rotors or pads but the tires.
... since I do run my car(s), I can tell you with some authority that that is technicality true. Brake pad performance is generally measured using its coefficient of friction (cf), i.e. the degree of friction (drag) between the pad and rotor. The tires need the grip. So if the CF of the brake system over-ride the grip of the tires, you'll lock them up. At the track I run an 'R' compound tire that has quite a lot more stick than my street tires (rain tires).
"The tree of Liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of Patriots and Tyrants" (Thomas Jefferson) Posts: 1446 | From: Germantown, MD USA | Registered: Feb 2000
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Just befor winter I did the BAER rotors on the SS and "seasoned" them exactly as 99HOSS suggested. I'm sure there were some cars on the 401 highway that thought I was nuts! 60 down to 5 - no lock up - just hard stops. Back up to 60 right away - then - right down to 5 again!
I had fun, but I'm sure some of cars thought I was losing it! I did make certain no was going to be effected by my stops and starts.
-------------------- Hawkeye: SSOA F98-C98
1998 SS - Black All Options - Mods Whisper Lid, K & N, Lou's Short Stick, Shift Light, Skip Shift, SLP Y, Borla, 4:10's, BMR STB, SLP SFCs, Granatelli MAF, Hypertech III, 160 Stat, Mallory Billet Pedals, Metco Aluminum LCAs,Fast Toys Ram Air Mod, Spohn Panhard Bar, BMR Torque Arm, free EGR mod,power antenna, BMR LCA brackets, Gentex Temp/Compass Auto Dim Mirror, AllMaxx Strobe and Wig Wag, BAER Eradispeed rotors,PPC Headers with Random Technology Hi Flow Cats, BMR Drive shaft Loop,FAST 78MM Throttle Body, FAST 78MM Composite Intake, Mobil 1 & lots of Zaino.
Wife & Best Friend Mary - copilot. Posts: 5558 | From: Windsor, Ontario. Canada | Registered: Feb 2000
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There is some very slight noise when you come to a stop. The stock setup made none. This may go away with some ware in. Small price to pay for a major improvement in stopping power. ![[Cool]](cool.gif)
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