Jesse and I will be heading up to Rapid Motorsports next weekend for dyno tuning. We're both running 3" y-pipes with metallic cats, so I'll post our numbers with that setup once we get 'em.
Now I really can't wait to hear the system at full song echoing off the armco at Watkins Glen in May!
posted
waiting on my BMR driveshat loop to finish up. The car is still up on the ramps. A few more days won't hurt. much!
-------------------- Hawkeye: SSOA F98-C98
1998 SS - Black All Options - Mods Whisper Lid, K & N, Lou's Short Stick, Shift Light, Skip Shift, SLP Y, Borla, 4:10's, BMR STB, SLP SFCs, Granatelli MAF, Hypertech III, 160 Stat, Mallory Billet Pedals, Metco Aluminum LCAs,Fast Toys Ram Air Mod, Spohn Panhard Bar, BMR Torque Arm, free EGR mod,power antenna, BMR LCA brackets, Gentex Temp/Compass Auto Dim Mirror, AllMaxx Strobe and Wig Wag, BAER Eradispeed rotors,PPC Headers with Random Technology Hi Flow Cats, BMR Drive shaft Loop,FAST 78MM Throttle Body, FAST 78MM Composite Intake, Mobil 1 & lots of Zaino.
Wife & Best Friend Mary - copilot. Posts: 5558 | From: Windsor, Ontario. Canada | Registered: Feb 2000
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posted
Not yet. I also ordered the BMR bracket and loop. Been driving the car and still need to tweak the LTRIMS first, then dyno it.
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Kevin Villier, 2002 SS #186 - 6M with Hurst and "short-stick", TT, navy blue, chrome SS wheels, Bilstein suspension, SS grill, BMR STB, BMR chrome-moly panhard rod, SLP loudmouth, Direct-Flo lid with Holley Power Shot filter, mallory polished MAF ends, 4.10 gears, PPC LT's. 336 rwhp, 345 rwtq
posted
John, I live only 25 minutes from Mikey. Let me know when you are going to be there. He is doing a new cam for me in May sometime.
-------------------- http://community.webshots.com/user/sscamaro02 AMERICAN CAMARO ASSOCIATION 2002 SS (M02-2022)(Build Date 9/10/01) T-Top,Bright Rally Red,Ebony Leather,Hurst Shifter,SLP Options: 345HP,SS Grille,SS Floor Mats,Personalized SS Rear Deck Mat,17"X 9" ZR1 Type Chrome Wheels,SS Cover,Engine Plaque. Additional Mods:GMMG Chambered Exhaust,FLP LT Headers,SLP CAI,K&N Filter,Silver Hood Stripes, Silver Letters on Rear Facia and Spohn Performance LCA, Panhard,SFC and Adj. Torq Arm w/Drive Shaft Loops.384/rwhp and 381/rwtq
1969 SS396 Olympic Gold.Unrestored,L34(350HP),M21 close ratio 4-Speed,Cowl Hood,Spoilers Front and Rear,Console w/Gages.Second owner since Nov.1971. 1 of 2018 Produced Posts: 828 | From: Denver,PA | Registered: Dec 2001
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quote:Originally posted by John01SS: Has anybody dyno'ed yet?
Jesse and I will be heading up to Rapid Motorsports next weekend for dyno tuning. We're both running 3" y-pipes with metallic cats, so I'll post our numbers with that setup once we get 'em.
Now I really can't wait to hear the system at full song echoing off the armco at Watkins Glen in May!
- John
Mikey is first rate, tell him Rich with the wimpy (not the word Mikey used )cam said hi! Posts: 3403 | From: Woodcliff Lake, NJ, USA | Registered: Dec 2000
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quote:Originally posted by sscamaro: John, I live only 25 minutes from Mikey. Let me know when you are going to be there. He is doing a new cam for me in May sometime.
We'll be over at the Phoenix performance dyno shop starting at 9AM on Saturday. We have three cars total, so we'll probably be there for a while. Stop by if you get a chance!
quote:Originally posted by leadfoot: John what made you pick PPC over SLP?
Hey Seth,
Quite a few things actually. For one thing, I got in on the group purchase, so the price was right. I knew the install would be easier -- ie. no disconnecting the steering linkage or shifting the k-member over -- so that was a big plus. I also like the Groty design better than the SLPs. The SLP's have too many twists and turns all over the place in the name of getting the lengths tuned...(my opinion anyhow.) Gordon also has an excellent customer service reputation.
Those are a few reasons... Posts: 301 | From: Annapolis, MD | Registered: May 2000
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posted
I also have leak at the drivers side "S" pipe connection. The clamps we were given are not adequate for that connection.
I've spoken to a muffler shop that has a MIG welder. My connection will be welded shortly.
That should solve the problem. They're also gonna make me a pipe to connect from the reducer to the Borla.
Anyone else have trouble with the single band clamps? I had to really struggle to get them on the pipes, and I don't think they are sealing all that well. They should be about 1/2" bigger.
-------------------- Hawkeye: SSOA F98-C98
1998 SS - Black All Options - Mods Whisper Lid, K & N, Lou's Short Stick, Shift Light, Skip Shift, SLP Y, Borla, 4:10's, BMR STB, SLP SFCs, Granatelli MAF, Hypertech III, 160 Stat, Mallory Billet Pedals, Metco Aluminum LCAs,Fast Toys Ram Air Mod, Spohn Panhard Bar, BMR Torque Arm, free EGR mod,power antenna, BMR LCA brackets, Gentex Temp/Compass Auto Dim Mirror, AllMaxx Strobe and Wig Wag, BAER Eradispeed rotors,PPC Headers with Random Technology Hi Flow Cats, BMR Drive shaft Loop,FAST 78MM Throttle Body, FAST 78MM Composite Intake, Mobil 1 & lots of Zaino.
Wife & Best Friend Mary - copilot. Posts: 5558 | From: Windsor, Ontario. Canada | Registered: Feb 2000
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posted
I went with the wide clamps on every connection. Put Exhuast sealant in the joint, one piece of metal tape around the joints, clamp and sealed up nice. I had the stock CME exhaust so all I had to do was cut off about 6 inches, flare the pipe and connect the reducer. I have had them on for a year and they look as pretty as when I took them out of the box!
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35th LE - CME/345hp, Bilstein, Auburn, !Cags, SLP STB, CCC, Custom FRC's, Engine Plaque SLP LE Grille, SLP SFC's, MBA Covers, PPC Headers and Random Tech Metallic Cats, Missing Scott's Sig!
67-RSLong list....
Posts: 343 | From: Castle Rock, CO | Registered: Jun 2002
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quote:Originally posted by 67&02: I went with the wide clamps on every connection. Put Exhuast sealant in the joint, one piece of metal tape around the joints, clamp and sealed up nice.
I may redo my setup just like this when I get a chance...
Posts: 301 | From: Annapolis, MD | Registered: May 2000
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quote:Originally posted by 67&02: I went with the wide clamps on every connection. Put Exhuast sealant in the joint, one piece of metal tape around the joints, clamp and sealed up nice. I had the stock CME exhaust so all I had to do was cut off about 6 inches, flare the pipe and connect the reducer. I have had them on for a year and they look as pretty as when I took them out of the box!
The Walker HD stainless steel band clamps come with sealer on the clamp seam and make for an excellent leak free seal. Summit carries them.
Posts: 3403 | From: Woodcliff Lake, NJ, USA | Registered: Dec 2000
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quote:Originally posted by KevinA: any words of wisdom before I do my own install?
Lots! give me a call this evening - Home - 519-966-4106 or cell - 519-984-4876
-------------------- Hawkeye: SSOA F98-C98
1998 SS - Black All Options - Mods Whisper Lid, K & N, Lou's Short Stick, Shift Light, Skip Shift, SLP Y, Borla, 4:10's, BMR STB, SLP SFCs, Granatelli MAF, Hypertech III, 160 Stat, Mallory Billet Pedals, Metco Aluminum LCAs,Fast Toys Ram Air Mod, Spohn Panhard Bar, BMR Torque Arm, free EGR mod,power antenna, BMR LCA brackets, Gentex Temp/Compass Auto Dim Mirror, AllMaxx Strobe and Wig Wag, BAER Eradispeed rotors,PPC Headers with Random Technology Hi Flow Cats, BMR Drive shaft Loop,FAST 78MM Throttle Body, FAST 78MM Composite Intake, Mobil 1 & lots of Zaino.
Wife & Best Friend Mary - copilot. Posts: 5558 | From: Windsor, Ontario. Canada | Registered: Feb 2000
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quote:Originally posted by KevinA: any words of wisdom before I do my own install?
I'm with Brian...lots! I helped Jesse do his and then I did mine, so I had the opportunity to apply a few things I learned on the first go-round.
Make sure you have the right jacks to get the car up high enough in the air...it's going to be higher than you think!
Mechanics gloves are your friends...wear them religiously or be prepared to face the consequences. If you're a hand model, do NOT attempt a header install unless your picture perfect knuckles are insured.
Test fit everything in your workshop/living room/bedroom...somewhere...before you even think about putting anything on the car. Some of the connections may be easier to make before pipes are on the car.
If you haven't already bought fire sleeves for your plug wires, get 'em
If you haven't already bought new plugs and wires, now is the best chance you'll ever have to work on 'em.
A set of really big channel locks comes in very handy when trying to work with the band clamps.
A rubber mallet will probably come in handy banging pipes together. Also, motor oil really lubes things up nicely and will help stubborn pipes come together.
Have fun taking your intermediate pipe off...at least my Borla i-pipe was a bit@h
Having a universal adapter in your socket set really helps with getting to some of the header bolts
Spend a lot of time thinking about the routing of the O2 extensions, especially the fronts. Hint...the heat sheilds can be used to your advantage here.
If you can't hand tighten the header bolts a good bit of the way, or they don't feel like they are going in quite right, back them out and try again...the second to last thing you want is a cross threaded header bolt or stipped hole. (And of course the LAST thing you want is a snapped header bolt.)
Remove the stock cats from the manifolds even though the instructions don't say to. It'll make getting to a few of the header bolts MUCH easier.
Whatever you do, do NOT reuse the stock header bolts.
A general rule when working on the car...use a torque wrench...if you don't know the recommended torque specs, ask...many of us have service manuals.
No matter what step you are doing, count on it taking 2-4 times longer than you think it will.
Above all else, enjoy it! It actually is a lot of fun...but be prepared to have the car in the air for a week or so as you put the finishing touches on everything. Doing it in your garage in a weekend would be a challenge...possible, but a challenge.
I think that about covers it. Oh yeah, and never EVER utter the words "It looks like we're past the hard part." I guarantee you'll live to eat those words...probably in the next step of the install!
- John
Posts: 301 | From: Annapolis, MD | Registered: May 2000
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posted
John about covered the hints... I would add one and elaborate on another.
1. Have a friend there to help. Some of this stuff really needs another set of hands. If you know somebody else that has done a header install on a f-body, so much the better.
2. Run the bolts all the way in while the headers are out by hand, then take them back out. It just gets you used to the angles and makes sure you didn't nick any threads on the way out. That made John's install much simpler than mine. I went first and was responsible for many of the DO's and DONT's:-)
Saw some of the other posts. I think the 1 inch clamps don't work well at all. I have an SES light, probably a leak somewhere around the S-Pipe. It sounds good, no real complaints.
quote:Originally posted by John01SS: Also...how is everybody's ground clearance at the drivers side cat?
I've got 2 3/4". Looks like any speed bumps in my future will be equivalent to U-turns.
- John
I'll check mine after I do the BMR brace - if it ever arrives! I know it's gonna be the low point just by eyeballing now. Speed bumps will be angled for sure!
-------------------- Hawkeye: SSOA F98-C98
1998 SS - Black All Options - Mods Whisper Lid, K & N, Lou's Short Stick, Shift Light, Skip Shift, SLP Y, Borla, 4:10's, BMR STB, SLP SFCs, Granatelli MAF, Hypertech III, 160 Stat, Mallory Billet Pedals, Metco Aluminum LCAs,Fast Toys Ram Air Mod, Spohn Panhard Bar, BMR Torque Arm, free EGR mod,power antenna, BMR LCA brackets, Gentex Temp/Compass Auto Dim Mirror, AllMaxx Strobe and Wig Wag, BAER Eradispeed rotors,PPC Headers with Random Technology Hi Flow Cats, BMR Drive shaft Loop,FAST 78MM Throttle Body, FAST 78MM Composite Intake, Mobil 1 & lots of Zaino.
Wife & Best Friend Mary - copilot. Posts: 5558 | From: Windsor, Ontario. Canada | Registered: Feb 2000
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I'll try again...
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much!
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)cam said hi! ![[Big Grin]](biggrin.gif)
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