posted
Maybe should be in the technical section - but -
I finished the header install.
1) I have a code light that won't go out?
Did the usual pull the fuse, but PCM is still not happy. The idle varies from rough to smooth on it's own.
2) Under moderate to heavy acceleration I hear a muffled rapping noise that varies with the RPM. Is there a leak? or is this a normal LT header sound.
Also put on a BMR driveshaft loop, could it be rubbing? (doubt it, seems like lots of clearance)
3) The car is much louder now. Will have to have my old ears get used to it!
Or wear ear plugs!
-------------------- Hawkeye: SSOA F98-C98
1998 SS - Black All Options - Mods Whisper Lid, K & N, Lou's Short Stick, Shift Light, Skip Shift, SLP Y, Borla, 4:10's, BMR STB, SLP SFCs, Granatelli MAF, Hypertech III, 160 Stat, Mallory Billet Pedals, Metco Aluminum LCAs,Fast Toys Ram Air Mod, Spohn Panhard Bar, BMR Torque Arm, free EGR mod,power antenna, BMR LCA brackets, Gentex Temp/Compass Auto Dim Mirror, AllMaxx Strobe and Wig Wag, BAER Eradispeed rotors,PPC Headers with Random Technology Hi Flow Cats, BMR Drive shaft Loop,FAST 78MM Throttle Body, FAST 78MM Composite Intake, Mobil 1 & lots of Zaino.
Wife & Best Friend Mary - copilot. Posts: 5558 | From: Windsor, Ontario. Canada | Registered: Feb 2000
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posted
Brain are you using O2 sensors or O2 simulators? Is every sensor plugged back in? Go around with a piece of vacuum line and put it by your ear as you go around the header gaskets,if you have aleak you will be able to pin point it.I have a stethoscope that works fine for exhaust leaks.
Posts: 5682 | From: Dearborn,Mi. | Registered: Feb 2002
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posted
1.) Codes from header install are fairly common. You pulled and re-installed fuse with ignition on yes?
The coating, change in flow, etc. can affect the 02 sensors, I finally replaced my rears (dealer did it under warranty) and the problem went away.
If the code is still there after reset, get the code and we'll take it from there.
2.) The check valve for the air pump will make more noise with the headers, anything other than that will probably be a leak. Check closely. Also a leak anywhere in the vicinity of the cats and 02s will set a code.
If the loop were rubbing you'd know it, it has a bell effect on the shaft and the exhaust - so that's probably not the issue.
3.) Much louder is a result from headers, the solution varies on taste. If you remember my posts about noise - it took me a long time to get the sound right. Number one advice - take your time and plan your solution. I finally put the Borla XR1 in the I pipe.
-------------------- 2000 SS Convertible, M6, Onyx Ebony leather, Hurst, Monsoon, 12 CD SLP Options: Syntech, Mats, Fobs, Plaque, Cover. SLP add ons:SS Grille, SLP Lid & K&N, smooth bellows, SLP CAI.... Other Add Ons: TTS LT headers Y Pipe and Cats, TR 220, LS6 Intake, GMMG, ASP underdrive pulley, Hypertech 180 stat, Granatelli MAF, Rapid Motor Sports custom tuning, BMR STB, LCAs, Relocation brackets, Adj. Panhard, Don Goetz bolt on SFCs, Hotchkis springs, Hurst Billet Plus shifter Appearance: FRCs with afterthoughts SS overlays, Mark's Caliper decals on black painted calipers, AR TTIIs (Gunmetal Spokes) with BFG Gforce T/A KDWs...
96 Impala SS Black Flowmasters SSOA, WCA, NAISSO Posts: 3403 | From: Woodcliff Lake, NJ, USA | Registered: Dec 2000
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posted
Brian, I dont have a very informative answer, but if you can find out what code is setting the light...maybe someone has had similar codes.
my car after I installed the SLP LT on my car, it ran "strange" at start up only and it smoothed right out...you seen my car running and I have had the headers on it since April 2002...it accelerates very smooth, no roughness or noise, so I would look further and not think of it just as header noise. Al
-------------------- 2002 35th LE # 115, SLP build # 986, T-top, 6 spd, 345hp OEM lid/CME, SLP Long Tubes, Random cats, SLP strut tower brace, SLP bolt on subframe connectors, adjustable billet lower control arms, adjustable billet pannard bar, SLP MAF sensor, smooth bellows, reusable Blackwing filter, Red Top Optima battery, Mobil 1 oil cap, Pro-5.0 shifter/shortened 1 1/2", 35th car cover, 35th floor mats, GM trophy mat, GM portfolio, SLP portfolio, key fobs/dash plaque(not installed), GM OPTIONS...traction control, rear defogger, 12 disk changer Polished ZO6 Dante replica wheels with BFG Gforce tires, rears are 18X10.5 with 295 35 18 tires, fronts are 18X9.5 with 240 40 18 tires.
posted
Brian, do you know what the code is? When I put heders on the Z06 I was getting a code that was the rear O2 sensors. I shut them off with LS1Edit. Greg or someone will know this better than me, but I believe the rear sensors are only to check on th cat converters operation. I then removed the CATS too.
Idling rough I don't know. Maybe it just needs to relearn everything?
Posts: 5946 | From: Litchfield, NH, USA | Registered: Feb 2000
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posted
I also got a code that I read and cleared using AutoTap, the code was P0161, HO2S Heater Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 2.
Someone told me they thought it was due to the rear O2 being further away and not heating up as fast.
I drove the car around after clearing it and the code didn't come back up. I also need to do more Auto Tap runs to check if the LTFT's need to be adjusted for.
My BMR brace/drive shaft loop came in and I'll be putting it in today.
Brian, did you use the original bolts for the BMR install or get stronger ones???
[ 28. March 2004, 10:42 AM: Message edited by: Kevin V 2002 SS ]
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Kevin Villier, 2002 SS #186 - 6M with Hurst and "short-stick", TT, navy blue, chrome SS wheels, Bilstein suspension, SS grill, BMR STB, BMR chrome-moly panhard rod, SLP loudmouth, Direct-Flo lid with Holley Power Shot filter, mallory polished MAF ends, 4.10 gears, PPC LT's. 336 rwhp, 345 rwtq
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