posted
Talked to the electrical contractor today, who was scheduled to start the electrical rough ins on the new house on May 10. Wanted to ask about some "extra" cable and phone outlets above the contract. No problem, but can get a discount if paying cash!
Well, when I was on the phone with him, he said there was a crew over at the house that afternoon and had already started! Bonus! Going over tomorrow to help in placement of the celing can lights and extra jacks.
The plumbers wanted to start Monday, but got put off, but now I think they got moved up to Monday again. At this pace, the contractor said it wouldn't be out of whack to expect a late July to mid-August finish! Hurry before the rates get too high!!!!
posted
That house is going along very quickly. I had requested a sub panel and a few extra wall plugs in my new garage with a 220v plug for my compressor and the idiot electrican did not add the extra 110v plugs as I wanted, no subpanel in the garage and gave me a 3 prong stove or dryer plug in the garage for my compressor. On top of that the drywall was finished. Now I have to either cut the drywall or use conduit to run the wiring.I was not happy about this. Posts: 5682 | From: Dearborn,Mi. | Registered: Feb 2002
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Looking good! Way ahead of my project but I am in no hurry! Take lots of pictures of that electrical rough in and the plumbing. It really comes in handy later when you want to make changes! Good luck!
Posts: 5946 | From: Litchfield, NH, USA | Registered: Feb 2000
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Yeah, they're even further along in the first couple of hours today than the 4 hours yesterday, (they worked from 10-2 yesterday afternoon) and they're going at a pretty good clip. In addition to arranging for some cash under the table changes to some of the wiring, outlet, phone, and satellite cable additions, plus even got them to pre-wire the great room for surround sound so all I have to do is clip the speaker wires into wall faceplates near the celing so no wires will be showing. They're also going to make allowances for easier installation when I run the lighting wiring from the main panel to the new shop. I got a 40 circuit breaker panel, and it was estimated that I'm going to have a several left over for future additions. It was much cheaper to deal with the electrical contractor directly than to go through the general contractor.
[ 07. May 2004, 10:42 AM: Message edited by: el ess1 ]
Posts: 577 | From: Aiken, SC | Registered: May 2002
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Cat5 wire for phones you can run data on it. 5"e" if possable.
RG6"Quad shielded" should be the only wire for cable/satalite AND have them use Only the compresion fittings not the Crimp type.
Remembet that with Satilite you have to go to the box 1st then split. With cable you can split and then go to any TV.This will make a difference in how you run your wire.
Every phone cable jack if you can take them back seperate. In the long run it will be more flexable.
Think of the future an extra cable run but not used may help. Like in a study,den or bedroom.
I put in 18 cable runa and 12 phone runs and they were not enough.
Remember the GARAGE .
On the electric run 2 empty pipes to the attic. 1 for 110V and the other for low(24v). This will help in the future. Also dont forget a conduit into the garage if it wont be accesable in the future.
[ 07. May 2004, 02:49 PM: Message edited by: 35TH ED/ed ]
Posts: 3091 | From: Canton Mi. | Registered: Oct 2002
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posted
You might want to consider having them wire you up so you can use a generator. With all the ice storms and possible wind damage from hurricanes causing power outages, it might be a good idea. I have my house set up that way. Even though it may go without saying, make sure they put some of your wall outlets on a switch too so you can turn table and floor lights on and off from the switch. My builder didn't do that and to this day I am still PO'd about it.
-------------------- Dave S Black 2000 Camaro SS Posts: 502 | From: Fort Mill, South Carolina....Charlotte | Registered: Aug 2003
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FireChicken
11 Secret Herbs & Spices
Member # 2067
posted
are they putting in the normal 14 gauge wire for 15 amp circuits? Personally, although its a bit more expensive, I prefer 12 gauge wire for all 20 amp circuits. That way you dont have any plugs on the opposite side of the house from the breaker box blowing breakers every time your wife uses a hair dryer, or if your kids put a computer and tv and stereo in their room, etc.
Posts: 686 | From: Texas: Hullabaloo, Caneck! Caneck! | Registered: Aug 2003
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A combination quad-wrap digital RG6 cable/phone jack in all the bedrooms and the "living room" (I am stealing that for my "office"), and each one of those will be run individually, and I can pick and choose how they're hooked up. I've got 6 plug outlets and a cable/phone jack behind where the TV/DirecTV stuff will be going in the great room, plus wired for surround sound. And two outlets are hooked up with the upper half switched. I've got wire loops run to every room (they'll be run through the house but not connected on either end, just in case there's something ELSE that might need power someday). I also had them drill holes in the cap studs on the wall entering the front door for future alarm panel and/or touch screen house control system wire runs should we choose to go that route later.
Thanks for all the tips, though. I appreciate the heads-up. However, I'm not made of money, so I can only do so much right now, and I refuse to borrow any more than I absolutely need to, because I loathe payments. Plus I'm still putting 25% of my pay into my 401K and am saving up to pay for the shop with cash. I'm pretty stretched right now, plus there's new furniture to be had...bunch of stuff. Those who've been there knows the drill.
So I'm wired for internet and satellite (I may even go with DirecWay internet too, not sure.
The finished garage will already have a few outlets and one for a garage opener, but the only thing it'll be used for is to park and clean the Camaros. That's it. Any maintenance will be done in the shop in back.
It's not the best setup in the world, but it's going to be ok for what I need. And, sorry to say, I really don't care what any future owner may think about my setup, I've got to do it with what's best for us in mind.
Posts: 577 | From: Aiken, SC | Registered: May 2002
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quote:Originally posted by FireChicken: are they putting in the normal 14 gauge wire for 15 amp circuits?
All electrical wiring is 12 ga, regardless. Most of the rooms are set up individually in the panel, and the fridge and microhood will each have their own dedicated breaker. Decided to go with the remote fan controls instead of the wall switches, etc. That way I can be lazy and just pick up the remote.
We don't have any kids anyway, but even so, they're GFCI'ing each of the bathrooms individually just as a matter of practice. If any future owners had kids, this will keep them from having to go all the way across the house to reset the GFCI. The outside outlets are hooked in with the garage circuit. The garage will have the GFCI to reset. Fairly neat electrical setup, actually.
And that bring out some donuts in the morning thing helps too, as I got a couple of extra boxes wired in for no charge!!
Posts: 577 | From: Aiken, SC | Registered: May 2002
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posted
Ask him if code there requires Arc Fault Breakers for the bedrooms. Very different from a GFCI. We have to install them here, and they trip very easy. Just curious. Thanks
Very impressive that he is running 12 guage wire for the 15 amp circuits. With the cost of wire right now, that can't be cheap. Allows you to up your breaker to a 20 amp in the future if need be. Sounds like your getting a really nice electrical/cable set up.
Looks very clean and neat in the pictures. Impressions are very important.
[ 07. May 2004, 10:09 PM: Message edited by: Brian's 01 SS ]
-------------------- Brian
2001 red SS Convertible #5479 out of 6332 CME, Grill, Chrome 10 spoke, Dash plaque, Cover Absolute Speed 5.3L stg. 2 heads, comp 978 dual springs, ti retainers, AS ported ls6 intake, AS ported 78mm TB, TR224/.564 114lsa, TTS headers,gmmg exhaust,and more.... 409/382 rwhp/rwtq tuned Posts: 216 | From: Western NC | Registered: Apr 2002
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quote:Originally posted by Brian's 01 SS: Ask him if code there requires Arc Fault Breakers for the bedrooms. Very different from a GFCI. We have to install them here, and they trip very easy. Just curious. Thanks
Actually, in our county, it's not required. We talked about code issues today and he mentioned that some places require AFCI's, such as Canada, for instance. Don't know why, but it's not required here. But another stupid rule they have here in this county, and not in any other surrounding county, is the rough-in inspection is done only after the wall insulation is installed. Pretty stupid, but what can you do?
[ 08. May 2004, 12:07 AM: Message edited by: el ess1 ]
Posts: 577 | From: Aiken, SC | Registered: May 2002
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