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Well over the winter I made some fairly significant changes and updates to the car.
I pulled the motor because I had some concerns about it as a result of tuning errors over the last 2 years. At times it had run lean and sufferred detonation, other times running too rich and I DID have a slight blow-by issue.
The motor was pulled and inspected and though the rings were worn from being washed out, the pistons were fine, which was a relieve. I also had sufferred a leaking rear main oil seal so I had to get that dealt with.
The blower also needed to be serviced as I had mistakenly over-filled the D1-sc with oil and apparantly stretched the seal.
One of the problems I have suffered was running out of fuel, so I upgraded from a Walbro 340 to a DUAL intank pump from Racetronix. REALLY nice piece. It should solve all my problems in that regard.
I also went to some ported AFR 190 heads and in fact I have my ported LT1 heads for sale if anyone is interested.
I also installed a Spohn torque arm as well and decided to get some dress up items done. I got the hood latches chromed as well as the alternator bracket. I polished the alternator myself as well as polished the Borla cat back - that took freakin' HOURS to do.
I also got the front upper and lower contorl arms powdercoated as well as brake calipers, intake manifold, upper panhard bar and both sway bars and brackets.
I went to a FAST computer as well.
About two weeks ago we had a big social event at my house and about 20 guys in the local f-body community came and helped me put it all back together over two days. A great social event and a tremendous help to me.
Anyway, a few things to finish up and HOPEFULLY get the car started this weekend. Wish me luck. Hopeing to see 600 - 625 rwhp
-------------------- 1997 T/A WS6 Conv. 383, AFR p&p 190's, ATI D1 @ 15lbs, FAST ECM, FLP's, Borla, Hotchkis trailing and panhard, Spohn TA, SLP springs, STB, Hal's, Kenny Brown DD SFC, Poly bushings, Chrome ZR1 (11*17 in back). Chrome 5 point roll bar.
posted
Sounds like it will be a real runner again. Keep us posted on the progress. Posts: 5682 | From: Dearborn,Mi. | Registered: Feb 2002
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posted
So Shaun, when do you (we?) start the '60 Pontiac project. You know I'd be there to help out on that one. Sorry my life doesn't allow for much extra work/fun like that recently. I've been following your trials and tribulations though... Man, you really have drive, despite all the unplanned problems. Good Luck this year. Going to the Tradex this weekend?
Larry
-------------------- '01 TransAm M6 Firehawk Red Convertible, All GM Options, All SLP options, Bilsteins
'89 IROC 1LE/R7U Red (w/Bilsteins of course) 1 of 111 built for GM/Players Series Racing in North West U.S.A., B.C. Posts: 24 | From: Abbotsford, British Columbia, Canada | Registered: Jan 2002
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quote:Originally posted by Black Robe: So Shaun, when do you (we?) start the '60 Pontiac project. You know I'd be there to help out on that one. Sorry my life doesn't allow for much extra work/fun like that recently. I've been following your trials and tribulations though... Man, you really have drive, despite all the unplanned problems. Good Luck this year. Going to the Tradex this weekend?
Larry
60 Pont would be a GREAT project Larry. In fact I proposed to my wife on her graduation day in my 60 Pontiac. Must have been lucky. 16 years married coming up.
I have fond memories of my pearl Ventura with the red flames and the Crager wheels.
Thanks for the good wishes.
Posts: 117 | From: Surrey. BC | Registered: Oct 2001
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Didn't see any '60 Sharks at the Collector Car Show and Auction this weekend, but I keep looking... I did pick up the application form for the Langley show on Sept. 6th, Gonna try to get into the Drive-In Show on the Friday night this year. Only the first 500 can fit in. See ya there? Posts: 24 | From: Abbotsford, British Columbia, Canada | Registered: Jan 2002
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posted
Well I had a bit of a problem that I FINALLY got figured out. No spark.
It could have been one of two things. One was the fact I had mistakenly connected a ground wire to the starter solenoid and that blew a fuse, although there was no apparant reason why that fuse had anything to do with spark.
The OTHER solution is that it appears that the theft deterant system MAY have been activated. This cuts the fuel and the spark. I do not know for sure that was the problem, but after resetting the theft system and relocating and correcting the ground wire, the Ponti-wreck turned over.
I needed to feather the gas pedal to get things up and running but it did eventually settle in and was ideling on its own for a godd 5 mins.
We tinkered with the FAST a little. However, after turning it off I was unable to get it started a second time and it was getting late by then.
Either way, I'm elated that it is actually running. A few more things to finish up and hopefully get to bolt the wheels on soon. :-)
I'll keep you posted with duno results and eventually times. Looking for 11.00. Posts: 117 | From: Surrey. BC | Registered: Oct 2001
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Glad to here that its almost back together...I saw the pics when she was apart very scary Posts: 67 | From: Southern CA | Registered: Jan 2003
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Its a bit of a long story as to why but I have to re and re the water pump. maybe not a big chore on most cars but I have the blower on thecar and its a pain.
I also used the wrong lubricant for the brake caliper sliders so I had to disassemble them again after installing them.
The good news is that the car is now starting reliably and seems to be able to idle fine BUT the wideband O2 sensor is not working, affectively shutting down tuning until I get that resolved
The car is still running very rough and lumpy but it is still progress.
Posts: 117 | From: Surrey. BC | Registered: Oct 2001
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posted
In the old days, the ignition wiring ran through the starter so that on start it had higher voltage and afterwards it ran through a resistor wire to bring the voltage to the points down to 8 volts. Now with a PCM, there's no reason to do that, but an interesting thought.
Posts: 3403 | From: Woodcliff Lake, NJ, USA | Registered: Dec 2000
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posted
Sounds like you've got a great setup there when you get the bugs worked out. What altitude are you at? I'm going to be dialing in my pcm after a D-1SC install and we're trying to detune it to run 12# on the stock bottom-end. Dropping CR to 9.5 to 1 and pulling timing. At 5800 ft. altitude, the effective boost will be a good bit lower than 12#. I hoping if we keep the revs down I can keep the engine together while I save for the bottom-end. Did you have the 383 done before the SC? I know I'm doing this bass-ackwards, but I got a great deal on the SC and I'm racing this season. The reason I'm asking about altitude, is that I get totally different opinions for SC guys here than I'm getting on the national boards. It seems there is a really big difference in how these babies work as you climb the mountain.
I'm at sea level on the coast. Cannot ask for better air quality for performance
I did the forged bottom end and blower at the same time and obviously you are aware that if it just a matter of time before the bottom end goes on your motor.
I have a 15# pulley but so far the most boost I have seen is 13.5#. Since then I have installed more seriously ported AFR's as oppossed to the stock heads.
With resepct to altitude I'm afraid I cannopt give any advise. I'm pretty much a rookie at all this.
Posts: 117 | From: Surrey. BC | Registered: Oct 2001
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Yea, I'm just hoping to get through the racing season... I'll be running race gas and doing what I can to limit the revs. It is going to be touch and go, though... Good luck with your tuning!
Posts: 87 | From: Boulder, Colorado | Registered: Oct 2001
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Well its getting closer and closer to being on the road.
I finally drove the Ponti-wreck out of the garage last weekend, for the first time in 5 1/2 months. Of course I did not have any brakes. LOL. I still have one remaining rear brake caliper to get back from the powdercoating shop.
I got the car started with the FAST computer installed and it seemed like the wide band O2 sensor was not working. After some research etc it seems basically that the base tune I was using was WAY too lean and I just had to keep upping the fuel. VERY cool program and system to use.
I do have a bad engine vibration and I think I need to check the motor mounts.
Then I have to finish polishing the Borla muffler and install that.
Chances are I will have to upgrade to 72 3 - 83# injectors form the 50's I have but God i'm looking forward to getting back in the drivers seat.
Posts: 117 | From: Surrey. BC | Registered: Oct 2001
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I have found out that the tuning problems are because I have 2 dead cylinders. number 1 and number 8 are not "hot" I have spark for sure, i have fuel and thus compression seems to be an issue. I have checked number 1 cylinder ONLY and the compression was 100 psi.
I'm going to try and check the other cylinders today. I sure hope it is not the rings Posts: 117 | From: Surrey. BC | Registered: Oct 2001
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quote:Originally posted by Rickerbucks: Well some "good" news.
The 1 and 8 injectors are not firing. I now know that to be the problem.
Next question is , why?
Check to make sure you have voltage to the injectors, then see if get voltage THROUGH the injectors with it running. If you get 12v through the injector on the ground side, then the injector is good, and the computer injector driver is most likely bad (or a bad connection in a harness or connector). If you dont have any voltage through the injector, then swap a few injectors around, and see if the location of the cylinder moves=bad injector.
Good luck! Posts: 1443 | From: Lake Oswego, Oregon | Registered: Dec 2001
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I changed out my PCM after I saw that three pins had 'burn' marks. Thats was it. Car started on all 8.
Of course then I started playing with the idle on the FAST and was making progress and suddenly things get all wierd and I overheat. I have no idea why that is but that should be manageable to fix. Posts: 117 | From: Surrey. BC | Registered: Oct 2001
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So I found my overheating problem. The fan shroud was not installed correctly in the slot on the passenger side and it caused the fan to bind. Lucky I did not blow the fan motor.
so i book a time an alignement shop and I was going to have to bleed the brakes, put the wheels on and off we go after 6 months.
But THEN............
One piston on the drivers side brake caliper is not releasing. AHHHHHHHH. Took it apart and played with it but I guess I'm going to have to HOPE that a replacement rubber seal will solve the problem. Unfortunately there was some overspray from the powdercoating and I had to sand that off the inside of the piston bore.
Dang when is it going to end. My wife is beginning to get more then a little tired of the time spent in the garage.
Posts: 117 | From: Surrey. BC | Registered: Oct 2001
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