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I was wandering what suspension mods you convertible guys are going with, to keep the body roll at a minimum.
-------------------- 1990 Camaro RS 350 Black Ttop Black/Grey Interior '91 Z28 Spoiler and Hood, '92 Z28 Wheels A4,2 Chamber Flowmaster
1995 Camaro Z28 Conv. Patriot Red M6 Tan Top-Tan leather interior 17" ZR-1 Wheels on BFG 275/40/ZR17's LT-4 Hot Cam, springs, rockers FASTCHIP reprogram (Ed Wright) 2 Chamber Flowmaster, 3" Flowtech Cutout
1997 Pontiac Grand Prix GT Red (Wife's Car) 3.8L V-6 Graphite Leather Int. Loaded to the core Posts: 12 | From: Arlington, TX | Registered: Jan 2002
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I'm in the process of doing suspension mods to my '94 - but I can tell you what I've done and what I have sitting on the floor waiting to go in.
Completed STB - did not notice a thing Eibach pro kit and bilstiens HD shocks - feels much more solid going over bumps - looks great APHR - no difference - needed it for the 315's Wheels - 17" rims - 285 in front 315 in rear - wanders a bit more - grips a lot better
Upcoming KB DD SFC - to be installed, heard this will make a BIG difference Suspension techniques large sway bars - to be installed, price was right ALCA's and lowering brackets - to be installed, eliminate wheel hop associated with lowered car.
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Suspension Techniques Speedtech springs Hal adjustable Coil-over shocks 32mm front hollow 1LE swaybar, poly bushings GW LCA relocation (anti-squat) brackets; 21mm rear hollow 1LE swaybar, 1LE LCA's; 1LE Panhard rod; (after lowering, the rear was only shifted 4mm, so an adjustable PHR was not necessary) Airlift 1000 airbags, independently plumbed.
GW SFC's welded on to reduce the chassis wobble worsened by the stiffer suspension. I'd say take it easy on the spring rate and sway bar sizes for this reason.
The car sits about 2.5" lower than factory. Rides firm and corners flat even on the factory 16" tires. The airbags keep the car from hitting the bumpstops too hard.
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Hey BPS, are those sway bars the 35mm/25mm kit? If you get a chance post how you like them when you get them installed. I have been thinking about trying the front bar on my car. I have heard good things on coupes but have never heard from someone with a convertible. Thanks!
Posts: 13 | From: Folsom | Registered: Nov 2001
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Yes they are, and I post my impressions - I got them for a reasonable deal - $190 for both with bushings and linkage, only used about 2 months before the poor fellow decided to sell his car and unloads his mods, local as well so no tax and no shipping.
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SLP Lowering springs, SLP Bisteins, SLP STB, Hotchkis Adjustable panhard bar and lower control arms. Poly bushings throughout, Kenny Brown DD SFC's. 315's in rear. 5 point roll bar. This dropped the car about 1.5 inches and I DID NOT have to work the inner fender lip to get the 315's to fit. The SFC's made a big deifference.
I find the car gets pulled ALL OVER the road on a bad surface. Scares the crap out of me sometimes.
What I would now like to do is put in Hal's.
-------------------- 1997 T/A WS6 Conv. 383, AFR p&p 190's, ATI D1 @ 15lbs, FAST ECM, FLP's, Borla, Hotchkis trailing and panhard, Spohn TA, SLP springs, STB, Hal's, Kenny Brown DD SFC, Poly bushings, Chrome ZR1 (11*17 in back). Chrome 5 point roll bar.
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Ricker$$ What are you running up front? I find that my 285's cause me to get pulled a lot more than the 255's did no matter what I do to the alignment or suspension.
1) Bolted on a Strut Tower brace - increased the aready bad understeer problem.
2) removed strut tower brace.
3) Drag radials - increased understeer initally, as well as wheel hop. This decreased somewhat over the past year of heat cycling. Will be replaced soon (tread is illegally low).
4) weld in Kenny Brown SFC's - hugh increase in weight transfer, much more predictable cornering/braking. Less wheel hop, and HURRAY... no understeer. heck, its damn near nutral now! (some of this is likely due to the LCA removal/cleaning since the bushings were frozen in place pretty good on the driver's side)
5) bolt on old STB - nice touch of understeer when level, which I can transistion to oversteer if needed (with some extra gas). I can throttle steer!!!
Next up? - Replace the worn Nitto 555R's on the rear - find a high milage (200 to 300 wear rating), yet fairly sticky front set of tires. - Weld in my Spohn LCA relocation brackets (these may increase oversteer a bit, but the fresh Nittos should compensate ) - Upgrade my LT1 front brakes. (C5 calipers, LS1 spindle, SS brake lines, speed bleeders, ATE Super Blue fluid, and KVR LS1-sized cryo-treated/cross-drilled/silver-cad plated rotors are all waiting in the garage)
Any recomendations on Front Brake Pads? (I'm currently running GM Durastop's in the rear on my KVR LT1-sized cryo-treated/cross-drilled/silver-cad plated rotors)
I'm considering Porterfield R4S street-performance pads. But they sound damn expensive at ~$160 a set. Any thing else I should consider?
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I have 285 Michelin Pilot Sports. Oh Ihave the LS1 brake upgrade but just the stock calipers and pads.
-------------------- 1997 T/A WS6 Conv. 383, AFR p&p 190's, ATI D1 @ 15lbs, FAST ECM, FLP's, Borla, Hotchkis trailing and panhard, Spohn TA, SLP springs, STB, Hal's, Kenny Brown DD SFC, Poly bushings, Chrome ZR1 (11*17 in back). Chrome 5 point roll bar.
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After talking to Mr. Strano at stranoparts.com I have decided on my setup. I am going to run ground-control coilovers in the front w/ ~400lb/in springs (same rate as Eibach), Eibach prokit rears, Koni SA shocks, and I will start out w/ my 1LE bars (32mm f, 21mm r). I may upgrade the front to a ST 35mm later though. I also have KBSFCs waiting to go on the car.
Posts: 13 | From: Folsom | Registered: Nov 2001
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BMR STB and SFC's, the SFC's made a noticable difference, the STB I can't say made much difference but it looks cool and improved steering feel during cornering.
-------------------- 99 Z-28 Vert. Arctic White, Loaded SLP Lid,B&M Ripper,SLP Loudmouth,Free mods, BMR SFC's and STB,DMS Springs on the way Posts: 20 | From: Wilmington,DE | Registered: Aug 2001
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